Thread: Your buffer will kill you.

Obviously, buffers are dangerous. I'm terrified of mine. But, not because it spins fast and can rip stuff out of my hand. Or just take the hand, too. I'm terrified of mine because of dust.

Some of you will know this, but many of you will not: if you are using a polishing motor or buffer often you need to be using a respirator, the machine should have a dust collector, and your shop should be well-ventilated. If you don't do this, you will get very sick and die because particles of abrasives and metal from the polishing will settle in your lungs. I am not kidding. A respirator on it's own is not enough; a fume hood and good shop ventilation is not enough. To scare yourself, Google metal fume fever. Ahhh!!!

My own set-up is similar to this. It works just like it's supposed to. I see this kind of set-up for sale from $300 to $500 (or thousands, if you're into 'German engineering'). That's cheaper than a funeral is here.

I am not an expert, but I learnt shop safety from my Grandfather. He was a shop teacher for 30+ years and had been working with his hands from an early age until he got Parkinson's. I am also studying goldsmithing and blacksmithing, having read the first chapters on shop safety in each book I've gotten my paws on, and have my own workshop. A safe workshop, because I'd like to be in it for a long time. In other words, I can say, without a doubt, that polishing = dust = death.

If anybody else has anything to contribute, about shop safety in general or buffer safety in particular, that'd be great. I see a lot of how-to advice, but not a lot of advice on how-to safely.

Don't forget, anything that rotates at a high speed...no loose clothing, jewelry, rings, hair, etc. When using the buffer always wear a good pair of snug fitting leather gloves, a good heavy leather apron, good boots and never ever forget eye protection. Your basic shop safety.

SAFETY FIRST

There are two distinct areas on a buffing wheel -
THE UNSAFE AREA which is rotating towards the workpiece.
THE SAFE AREA which is rotating away from the workpiece.

The division of these two areas is marked with the dotted line on the above drawings. The workpiece must only be applied to the area of the buff that is rotating AWAY from the workpiece.
You should ensure that you are completely aware which area is which, otherwise you could have a serious accident. Objects being thrown away from a buffing wheel can be traveling at very high speeds, which can result in some very unpleasant and potentially deadly accidents!
When buffing parts have sharp corners, edges or hooks, they should be offered to the wheel with the edge flowing away from the buff, so the part does not catch. Operators should ALWAYS wear SAFETY GOGGLES, APRON, GLOVES and DUST MASK.

Introduction To Buffing and Polishing - Caswell Inc.
Buffing Wheel Safety Information and Gudelines


There's a bunch of info out there on this, read read read before you decide to use one.

Well, you have sufficiently scared the poop out of me...
Anyone have any idea at what speed this becomes a danger? I mean, hand sanding steel is safe with just a mask, right? Or am I a dead man walking?

Originally Posted by JimR

Well, you have sufficiently scared the poop out of me...
Anyone have any idea at what speed this becomes a danger? I mean, hand sanding steel is safe with just a mask, right? Or am I a dead man walking?

Watch those fingertips!

I made a buffer out of an old juicer I had lying around that spun at only 1750 rpm. I wore gloves and eye protection and was always aware of where on the wheel I put the item being polished for fear of it getting launched. My golf bag was 4 feet away and, after 10 minutes of buffing, was covered in buffing dust and specks. I was shocked! Now even at this low speed I'm using a respirator. 3M makes some good ones with disposable filters for around $30 I think.

Originally Posted by JimR

Well, you have sufficiently scared the poop out of me...
Anyone have any idea at what speed this becomes a danger? I mean, hand sanding steel is safe with just a mask, right? Or am I a dead man walking?

The mask is good, just make sure it's the right kind of mask for the work you're doing. The same goes for a respirator. And find a comfortable one. If you don't like wearing it, you won't, and you'll die.

I bet most of us don’t have a “workshop”, and probably don’t do this every day.

A trip the nearest hardware store and pick up a 3M Cool Flow Respirator… they come in pairs (recommended for Sanding Grinding, Sawing and Insulating particles)… I use the 8511 (N95)… about $7.

- Make sure the goggles are resting on the out side of the mask - yes that sounds like a silly warning but believe it or not, I have seen guys at construction site with the mask not sitting right because they put the mask on after the goggles.
- Make sure the metal “nose piece” fits your nose… everyone’s “nose bridge” has a different shape so bend the little metal thing to the contours of your nose for a proper seal.
- Take a deep breath with the mask on, the mask should press tighter on your face when you breathe in – good seal.
If you plan to re-use the mask, place it in a container away from dust – you don’t want those particles to get inside the mask while it is off your face for you to inhale when you put it on again.

Well now… all shave, so I don’t have to tell you that beards reduce the seal around your face lolololol.

- After switching off the power to the grinder or buffer don’t just rip off the mask… keep it on for a few minutes (in fact you should get used to wearing it)… remember just because the machine is no longer running doesn’t mean that dust particles aren’t still floating in the air. Particles need time to “settle” so open a window or start vacuuming the area… and make sure the vacuum has HEPA filter… and you may want to change that filter somewhat more often than usual.

You may also want to invest in a good air filter – good to have around the house even if you don’t have a “work shop”.

Many years ago I assembled a buffer with a 1-1/2 hp motor, pillow blocks and a custom 1" shaft with reverse threads on one end and accommodation for a large taper adapter on the other. The first time I used it with an 8" wheel to polish a long gas light fixture. I was almost done, working on the inside of a radius when it whipped the fixture out of my hand, slapped it across my face and broke my nose. I was lucky I didn't loose and eye and since I was laid off at the time, didn't have insurance and didn't seek treatment. My nose still tells the tale. After consulting with polisher I was informed the wheel should spin towards the operator so as to throw the work towards the ground. I was also told not to let go of the work. I had worked in custom sheet metal shops for 8 years at the time and should have known better. I still use it but with the direction as suggested and I'm much more careful now.

Originally Posted by Whiggamore

If anybody else has anything to contribute, about shop safety in general or buffer safety in particular, that'd be great. I see a lot of how-to advice, but not a lot of advice on how-to safely.

Sterling stuff, Matthew.

Anyone care to convert this thread into a Wiki article for the safety section?

Thanks!
Robin

This further confirms my opinion that I am the sort of person who should be kept away from powertools.