Pics of a few rust blued blades

I decided a while back to rust blue some blades. Figured that it might be an alternative to hand sanding, which I hate, and that some of the razors might come out looking pretty sharp (pun intended). These are pics of four that I've done (there were a couple of experiments before these not really worth mentioning). Starting from left: A.W. Wadsworth and Son "XLNT" (I added the barbers notch), George Wosterholm and Sons XL frameback, Empire Razor company with eagle engraving, Henckels for comparison, and in latter pics Diamond razor company razor-- its the one with scales that has been rehoned. The blades were sanded to various girts, degreased, rusted, boiled and carded five or six times. All these blades had flaws, but could be honed and used, except for the Empire razor.

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2355/70968144.jpg

First is the Empire razor. It has/had serous pitting and it isn't a usable razor, having cracks in the edge of the blade. It was sanded with either 80 or 120 girt sandpaper (can't remember which) from spine towards the edge of the blade. It was the only one sanded in this direction. The results were good, the razor ended up with a dark, fairly even finish. I stropped one side of the blade aggressively on a CrO pasted strop to test the durability of the finish, if you look you can kind of see areas where bluing was removed on the spine and on the bevel. This test might not have been entirely fair, you're supposed to let the finish develop over about 90 days to toughen up and deepen. I think the huge pits on this razor were made much less of a distraction by the bluing. It was an ugly mess before it was blued, and I think it looks pretty good now.

I should note here I took pics with and with out the flash to show effects of different light on the finish color. The flashless pics are natural light next to a window with a good dose of sunlight. They look a bit darker normally than they came out in the flashless pics. The towel they are resting on is light blue, for reference, and you can see its a bit washed out looking in the pics with no flash, and truer in the pics with the flash.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/179/65979523.jpg

These two show the side that was stropped

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/9996/29501916.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/3987/38193286.jpg

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5158/73477841.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5158/73477841.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5158/73477841.jpg

Second is the frameback. This was sanded with 220 from the heel to the toe. The finish is lighter than the Diamond and the Empire razors, the lower grit sanding leaving a deeper matte finish, but I wouldn't call it a dramatic difference. I still kind of wish that I'd used a lower grit on this blade, though. But overall the finish prolly turned out the best of the razors. I can't say if that was sanding or the fact I took extra care with this one, I wanted it to turn out well.

Thats a fingerprint in the middle of the blade, not a flaw.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/4005/dscf0193lxm.jpg

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2153/dscf0192x.jpg

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/6884/dscf0195.jpg

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4881/dscf0196n.jpg

Now I have the problem that I really cant think of what scales would look good with this...

And one more break. This 7 image limit thing is a real PITA.

3rd is the XLNT. This was sanded toe to heel with 400 grit paper. The finish actually turned out the worst on this one, with some odd streaking and blotching at the toe of the blade. Not sure if this is due to the grit size being high and not letting the solution bite, or the blade not being properly degreased. I went a little "degreaser crazy" (used 6 different degreasers, I think) and there may have been some left on the blade b/c I didn't give it time to evaporate, or there may have been other longer lasting resides from the degreasers that I didn't get off.

You can see the streaking in the flashless pics, they're more prominent towards the toe. They're most visible in the third pic.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1297/dscf0203m.jpg

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/8051/dscf0204f.jpg

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1966/dscf0206b.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/4980/dscf0205z.jpg

Final is the Diamond razor. This was sanded toe to heel with 120 or 180 grit (can't remember again). This one has pretty bad pitting, but nowhere near as bad as the Empire. It's been honed and used to make sure that there was no damage to metal, works fine. Diamond seems to be pretty good razor. It was honed with tape on the spine.

The streaks in this pic are oil, not the finish.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9807/dscf0219o.jpg

You can see some of the pitting here, its on the spine of the blade, towards the heel.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/7664/dscf0225g.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9286/dscf0226awg.jpg


Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the results. I wouldn't want all my razors blued, but it makes a nice change, and I think that you could choose to blue a badly pitted but still serviceable razor, instead of the whole sand/grind down thing. The finish is going to wear off of the spine and possibly the area above the bevel due to stropping, but that'll still leave 80% plus of the blade blued and protected from rust, and it will leave the tang protected, also. Speaking of which, I'm going to have a hard time resisting the temptation to blue my tangs, not just b/c of the look, but because it prevents damage in a rust prone area. I really like the whole low maintenance thing. Of course, this should prolly only be done to razors that are worth the time, its a long process, taking some 15-20 hours to complete. I really wouldn't call it a labor intensive process, though, the vast majority of the time is spent waiting for rust to develop. I'd recommend watching TV or a movie during this period, actually watching the blades rust would prolly be a most unsatisfying experience.


I'd like to get a little more XP doing this, so if you have a blade or tang that you'd like to have blued, PM me.

Excellent work! I really like the rust bluing, but haven't been patient enough to do it - all the waiting, boiling, carding and repeating the cycle put me off. The low temp salt bluing I do gives a similar result, but in much less time, and is tenfold better than the cold bluing options.

Here are some pics of a Giesen & Forsthoff Timor that had the old bluing removed in order to restore the blade, and which was then blued again:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/logo1-31.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/edge1-43.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../blade4-47.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../blade3-57.jpg

Regards,
Neil

That looks great. I wonder how well it would work in the high desert of northen Nevada though. Rust is near impossible here.

I think I get too into shiney ,chrome outcomes. The bluing is really a good alternative.
Al

Thanks, but I got turned onto a really good rust blue solution by a member here, and I think that it was prolly more responsible for the outcome then what I did.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

Excellent work! I really like the rust bluing, but haven't been patient enough to do it - all the waiting, boiling, carding and repeating the cycle put me off. The low temp salt bluing I do gives a similar result, but in much less time, and is tenfold better than the cold bluing options.

Here are some pics of a Giesen & Forsthoff Timor that had the old bluing removed in order to restore the blade, and which was then blued again:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/logo1-31.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/edge1-43.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../blade4-47.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../blade3-57.jpg

Regards,
Neil

---

Thats nice. I really like that tang and spine blued look, its alot more subtle then having the whole thing blued. I'm trying to figure a way to do that with a rust blue and get clean edges on the spine.

What did you use to oxidize them?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OLD_SCHOOL

I've done this in the past. I had two razors that would literally start forming rust during honing. I couldn't believe it, so decided that the best option would be to blue the entire blade. Coz if orange rust can form that fast, imagine the result if you missed a tiny droplet of water and went to the next razor in rotation.

I also do it to Japanese razors that I restore, to mimic the carbon that is left on the razors from the clay heat treat process. And also to protect the handles when I wrap them.

Nice work BTW, as you said, not something you'd want to do to all razors, but it is interesting and fun.

---

Yeah, the durability appeals to me as much as the look does. Like I said before, I really like low maintenance. I don't mind doing some work all at once, but continual maintenance, like oiling blades after each use, is just a drag to me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muirtach

That looks great. I wonder how well it would work in the high desert of northen Nevada though. Rust is near impossible here.

---

You'd have to build a rusting box. Basically a wood box with a pan of water and a light bulb for heat.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kevint

What did you use to oxidize them?

---

Sorry, missed your post. Gun Goddess rust blue. If youre interested in it, PM me and I'll tell you how to get some. The member I got the info from didn't seem to want to post it on the open forum, so I'll respect his wishes.

That looks nice, how would one go about doing that process. In my other hobbies, Ive always like that over blinged out chrome.

If it was me sorry if I made it seem like I didn't want it posted. I think gun goddess is great. seeing these I kick myself for not trying it. your results are great. did you card by hand or with a wheel? you did good. build a small blueing box or big one?

as far as areas you don't want blued, I think you can try lacquor on those areas. I know that some guys will lacquor the inside of the barrel (not necessarily the best thing to do) and it must not interfere with the boiling off.

Man, I've got to get out and try this now. 320grit is standard for gun rust bluing. I think I'll start there. but I sent all my blades out, damnit, have to find something to blue now.

Red

Electrical Tape will do a fine job masking areas you'd like untreated. Yes, even through boiling!:)

Careful with slow acting processes which could possibly cause pitting.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Psicko

That looks nice, how would one go about doing that process. In my other hobbies, Ive always like that over blinged out chrome.

---

You need to buy bluing solution from either Half Moon Rifles (what I got, you can find it on google, you'll have to call, then mail a check) or from some place like Brownells. They'll send you a booklet with instructions. Basically you sand, degrease, apply solution, rust, boil, card, repeat the last four.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Big Red

If it was me sorry if I made it seem like I didn't want it posted. I think gun goddess is great. seeing these I kick myself for not trying it. your results are great. did you card by hand or with a wheel? you did good. build a small blueing box or big one?

as far as areas you don't want blued, I think you can try lacquor on those areas. I know that some guys will lacquor the inside of the barrel (not necessarily the best thing to do) and it must not interfere with the boiling off.

Man, I've got to get out and try this now. 320grit is standard for gun rust bluing. I think I'll start there. but I sent all my blades out, damnit, have to find something to blue now.

Red

---

No worries, I thought I might be reading too much into your post, but I figured I'd err on the side of caution. Thanks for hooking me up with the stuff.

I carded the first three times with the fine buffing wheel of a underpowered cordless dremel set on its lowest setting. The last 2-3 cardings I used steel wool soaked in alcohol. The buffing wheel had a little bit of bite, so I figured it was good for the earlier cardings, and the steel wool seemed to leave a finer finish. Where I live we have 90% humidity on a good day, so I didn't need a rust box. As a matter of fact, I did them inside b/c I was worried about too much rusting.

Yeah, I think I'm going to try lacquer (maybe nail polish). I'll also try Kevins idea (thanks Kevin) with the electrical tape. I think that maybe getting a straight line on the spine may not be all that hard in some cases. If you just make sure the blue goes into the hone wear area then you can just hone w/o tape, and that should get rid of the bluing and give you an even line on the spine. In theory, at least.

So far, I've actually liked rust bluing stuff, myself. Its really not all that much of a hassle and you get really nice results.