One other tip (for the wood to choose) the woods that work great for making dovetails are:
1 beech (photo 1 and 3 )
2 cherry, american and european (photo 2 the red side = american)
3 oak (although this one breaks out faster)
4 plane
5 walnut ( photo 2 brown/black side)
6 maple
My advice for you is: practice on beech, it's a very nice wood to slice and it's very cheap.
Surely there are more but I find those to work great.
Oke to the point here :)
The middle one with mitred sides isnt that extra work to do but you need to hold your head together.
steps:
1: Make your dovetails just the way you made them before. But now we need to place the tails a little different. Draw them in a way, so you have 2 HALF tails on the sides. 1 on the one side, 1 on the other side. Cut them clean and go to the next step.
2: Put your tails on the end grain (were the pins will come) again and slice the location were the pins need to go. saw/cut the pins clean. DO NOT cut the side pins away yet!! now we will look at those mitred points.
3:First you take your tail piece and saw/cut the end tails perfecly mitre.
The reason we didn't make the mitred points in step 1 is because if we did, we were not able to slice the place of the tails on the end grain for the pins.(It will not lay flat on the surface)
4: Then take your pin piece and you will start to see what you need to do to fit the joint. Yep, you need to make a mitred end on the side pins. (Do not make the end pins completely mitre, just the area where the pin piece will meet the mitred tail.
darn, it's hard to explain without images but I hope that you understand what to do.
Btw, I'm new on straight razor place and shaving with a straight for a month now. Shaver is a worldmaster silversteel. And going under the knife again today :medvl:
Good look with your dovetails! If you need more help just say.
IJsBlok