Thread: Scale Making without major tools

I've managed to get a hold of a few blades which are in good shape but the scales aren't in the best of shape.

I've been wanting to learn how to make scales for a while now, but I don't have access to most tools which would make the job easier.

I've got sandpaper, a coping saw, a ball peen hammer, and a dremel. I've also got some size 0 washers on order, and plan on picking up some cheap balsa and brass rod at Hobby Lobby tomorrow (because they're closed on Sundays).

The 2 main concerns I have are drilling the holes and making the wedge. What additional tools would I need to do this? I don't have access to very many tools and was hoping there was a way to drill the holes with my dremel.

Let me know what you guys think.

You can drill the holes with your dremel, but you run the risk of them not being prefectly centered. Not a huge deal in the wedge depending on how you do things, but if your hinge line is off you will not center properly. The amount of perfect will decide how bad your centering is.

dole,

If you are going to do this with minimal tools a cheap electric drill is something you may want to get. I started drilling holes with one of my dad's manual "eggbeater" drills and that will still work just fine, but I'll bet they are now about the same price as a starter electric drill. I prefer the plug in types for both their cost and general durability Cordless is great for a take-along tool, but eventually the batteries will need to be replaced once the old ones no longer take a charge and that gets expensive.

good luck,

I believe I'll be able to get my hands on a hand drill.

My question is will I need a special adapter in order for it to accommodate a 1/16'' bit which I picked up today.

I'm really looking forward to getting this project started, even though the scales will be plain ole' balsa.

Ethan, the 1/16th drill bit should work fine with the standard chuck on most drills. It should fit fine in the dremel tool also.

Also, you may want to consider getting the wood cutting blade for the dremel tool I haven't used these yet, but after the difficulty I had trying to cut even 1/8th inch beechwood (which is only slightly harder than Balsa), I would not want to cut a lot of wood with a coping saw.

Just curious, why balsa? They probably have basswood or some other semi-hard wood at the place where you'll get your balsa, and it will be a whole lot more durable.

Originally Posted by superbleu

Ethan, the 1/16th drill bit should work fine with the standard chuck on most drills. It should fit fine in the dremel tool also.

Also, you may want to consider getting the wood cutting blade for the dremel tool I haven't used these yet, but after the difficulty I had trying to cut even 1/8th inch beechwood (which is only slightly harder than Balsa), I would not want to cut a lot of wood with a coping saw.

Bong, thanks for the heads up on the drill bit. Also, I'll have to look into that wood cutting tool for the dremel, sounds interesting.

Originally Posted by sffone

Just curious, why balsa? They probably have basswood or some other semi-hard wood at the place where you'll get your balsa, and it will be a whole lot more durable.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll check and see what else they've got.

I found some 1/4'' thick woods today at Lowes, but it seemed to be too thick for scales I'm anxious to see what I find at Hobby Lobby.

Personally, I'd be wary of balsa wood. If you want a nice balance on your razor (i.e. equal weights either side of the pivot pin) you'll want a heavier wood. Also, if I'm not mistaken balsa isn't the strongest of woods and you may want to go for a more aesthetically pleasing cedar or perhaps red pine. If you're going to do something, you may as well do it well. A scrap piece of nice wood won't blow your budget, heck you may even find one for free. Some houses have nice floorboards, here in New Zealand I know some people who have reused totora and rimu both are hard podocarps and make for nice finishes. Another suggestion may be swamp wood, as some places will sell you a small piece for a small amount. I made a clock for my grandparents from an ancient kauri trunk which had been preserved in a swamp, it was an estimated 1100 years old. Wood like that is quite hard (I don't think it was completely petrified) and with the right sandpaper can come up with a nice shine (try 80, 120, 240, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000 grit sandpapers on it, which should only set you back $5-10).

If you don't understand the names in there, they're Maori names for the trees, I think you'd probably understand the Latin names about as much, but Rimu is similar to red pine, totora is similar to a hard pine and kauri is a light wood, similar to cedar, I suppose.

Anyway, that's my two cents,

Joundill.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Read through here....

Every single question you have asked and some you haven't even thought of yet, are there...

The easiest way to start is with 1/8 in stock from www.bellforestproducts or Woodcrafters... If you are shipping it in get it from Bell Forest...

Although it is in the sticky also, the wedge is a general rule of thumb, you start with stock that is half the size of the Tang thickness...

Glen,

I have had my nose buried in that reading for quite a while now.

Thanks for the link to Bellforest, hopefully I'll be ordering a couple blanks from them soon. Just curious how many sets of scales can you get from one blank?

Also, anyone have any extra Size 0 washers? Looks like I won't be ordering mine for a little while...