Looks like a cool design. The blade doesn't stick out the bottom at that "notch" does it? Looks like it might but I can't really tell.
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Looks like a cool design. The blade doesn't stick out the bottom at that "notch" does it? Looks like it might but I can't really tell.
No it would not have stuck out past the bottom, because if it was opened a little more you could see the blade has been reshaped because of corrosion and is accually about an inch shorted at the heal and although it looks like the blade is larger than the scales in the pic it is not.
I just got some brass rod the other day that was HARD, I mean really hard! Annealed it and it was fine, but I was tapping, tapping, tapping & never seemed to be making any progress...
I would keep the grain logitudinal to disperse the forces better - but I'm no expert. Or perhaps a polyurethane or cyanoacrelate finish to stabilise the timber.
glen is right , I would drill the holes slightly larger. Ide also use stabilized wood as it takes more abuse and make sure you use nickle silver pins. Theypeen much easier than SS . You can use brass either will work just fine . I have cracked knife handles theat were snug ,they cracked 3 weeks after just from moisture in the air from swelling.
If you are using brass rod for the rivets, as was noted above - anneal the brass. For most purposes, brass is annealed to still retain a bit of spring at a temperature of 670 F. If you want to make it dead soft, which may be a good idea here, get it to red heat. You can let it air cool or quench it - that matters not as it's the heat-to point that's critical. File the ends of the rivets flat if you cut them with a nipper to make the peening easier and better looking.
good luck :beer2:
Cut out another set today, drilled pivot hole larger and annealed brass as suggested, worked fine. THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE ASSISTANCE.:mexwave: