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Thread: Starting the initial edge ?
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04-27-2006, 09:25 PM #1
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Thanked: 8Starting the initial edge ?
I'm having a go at restoring a rusty piece of junk...not really just a bit rusty and tarnished with some pitting. The blade looks in good shape, no bad honing wear at all so I've got plenty to work with.
Good news is that I've got all the crap off and have it looking clean and well polished. Even fitted the scales back on (thanks Bill, those brass pins are excellent).
Now to start the edge off. I only have a Japanese 6000 hone but need something more aggressive to start the edge on. What does everyone use ?. I'll be at it for hours with the 6000.
Thanks
Gary
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04-27-2006, 11:28 PM #2
If you don't own coarser stones, you can wet-stick some 1000 sandpaper grit on a glassplate, and use that to start the edge. As soon as you are done with it, move to the 6000 grit stone.
Nenad
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04-28-2006, 04:03 AM #3
Or you could just get a 1000 grit stone and also use it to remove nicks from old razors. I'm probably gonna order a 1000 grit Jap this week.
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04-28-2006, 04:14 AM #4
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Thanked: 8I've got some 1000 wet/dry so I'll give that a go tonight. I'm basically experimenting to see what I can acheive with my basic skills and tools.
A dremel emery wheel really did a good job removing the pitting/ tarmish etc without overheating the edge. Then a buffing wheel with polishing compound and finished with plain buffing wheel. Looks nearly new.
Gary
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04-28-2006, 06:08 AM #5
Gary,
It sounds like you're doing a great job. You won't need very many passes on the 1000 grit paper to get an edge, so be careful to not over hone it.
Ed
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04-28-2006, 06:13 AM #6
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- Middle Earth, Just round the corner from Hobbiton, New Zealand
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Thanked: 8Hi All,
well the 1000 grit wetted and stuck on top of my 6000 stone did the trick. Finished on the 6000. Did the drag across the wet thumbnail and it feels consistent with a slight drag, no notches or blunt points.
Next is the paddle strop then leather. Oh..then the face.
Gary