Thread: Question regarding extra/stabilizing pins

Originally Posted by urleebird

The third pin serves a couple of purposes.
[*]It keeps the blade from swinging all the way through the scales

Bill, I think this is not the case. The blade stops just like on every other blade, because it can't fit between the scales near the end spacer. At width of 1/8 inch and more at the spine it can't swing to the other side because no end spacer exceedes the width of 1/16 inch, and it's usualy less... I hope I got the inches right

Nenad

When I'm making my scales, I place the spacer in such a way that the shank of the blade rests on it. Again, I don't suppose it's absolutely necessary, but I like it that way. So yes, on mine, the stabilizing spacer also functions as a blade stop/rest.

I got the impression that the OP was talking about pins to stabilize two piece scales to a liner, not a third pin.

Thats what I thought also.

Originally Posted by SharkHat

I got the impression that the OP was talking about pins to stabilize two piece scales to a liner, not a third pin.

Originally Posted by SharkHat

I got the impression that the OP was talking about pins to stabilize two piece scales to a liner, not a third pin.

Ok.

But I was mainly addressing the third pin thing because it was mentioned in subsequent posts and it also was a two-birds-with-one-stone comment.

On a two-piece set of scales with a liner, the pin at the top of one of those materials could (should) be strategically placed to serve both purposes... To secure the top half of the material to the liner, and to provide the proper spot for the third pin. I do not like leaving a pin at this juncture holding everything together with the tensile srength of the glue in the hole. There is too much movement and it will eventually give way. My knife scales are done with just epoxy, but I also have dovetailed bolsters and epoxy holding the material to the steel as well.

Nenad... the inches you quoted were close enough for me to understand the point you are trying to make. Partially my fault. I was in a hurry when I answered the post. I'm not necessarily talking about a 360 degree swing through. I'm referring to a swing of a 6/8 or larger blade swinging through the other side of the scales enough to expose the heel of the blade to cut the crap out of any passing flesh.

In addition to that, all razors don't have that 1/16 inch thickness butt spacer. Some are a little wider to help accommodate the thicker blades. 6 - 7 mm (1/4 inch) In some razors, the blade doesn't quite get close enough to the spacer either to keep the blade from travelling too far. Without that third pin, it is common for the wider blades heel to come shinin' through. I do have some razors that also will do the 360 degree thing also.

Randy... I promise never to change the OP again

Yes, the question was about extra stabilizing pins for multi panel scales, rather than the typical "third pin" frequently used on razors.

The pins I am referring to would only go through one scale, not the pair. They would help to stabilize the scale and hold the material on the backing. Are they necessary? Should they be peened or are they decorative. I see them mostly on multi panel mother of pearl or ivory scales, but they are not on all multi panel scales. I have never seen extra pins on single panel scales unless they are strictly decorative.

I understand what Bill says about an extra pin being used to stabilize material and be used as the "third pin", but what about a two piece scale that meets in the middle, or a 3-4 piece mother of pearl scale? Should I peen these?

Thanks for the tips guys.


Matt

Sorry I misunderstood the original question, Matt, and contributed to the muddying of the waters. To answer the question you actually asked: No, I wouldn't peen them, and if I did, it would be veeeeeerrry lightly. Scale material's pretty thin, and some substances (certain woods, ivory, and especially MOP) are prone to cracking with very little pressure. You might get away with peening the liner side (if using a liner), but I wouldn't risk the visible side. CA or epoxy should hold it in place just fine. What I often do it to roughen the pin up a bit with sandpaper before gluing it in place. Gives the glue something to hold on to, and lessens the odds of it working loose. Hope this helped a bit.