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I was going to pop this Robeson blade out to work on it and set about de-pinning the razor, and got into trouble. First, the pins were very much flush with the bolsters, no washers. Couldn't get a grip with my side-snippers. So then I thought I'd drill them out a little, but the pins are very hard and I almost started melting the celluloid of the scales!
Now I'm in too far to back out but can't figure out how to get the pins out.
I'm sore in need of some good, experienced advice!
Looks to me you got a nice clean start there, so I'm guessing you got the right idea? Drill, a little at a time. Cool off, perhaps with a glass of ice water?Quote:
Originally Posted by LawsonStone
I'm not aware of any other way, but perhaps I'll learn something as well here :)
Edit: Those scales will look awsome.
One drop of oil and a new bit should do the trick...
Go from both sides, this really works on stuck pins
File, tap.. switch sides file, tap with 1/16 punch pin never tap harder than you would to peen a pin
These are different ideas that work for me
tape around the pin the file flat then use a center punch to tap the pin out.
The risk here is that you might take the metal inlays off.
Looks to me like the bit is not biting in enough. Switch to a cobalt bit and drill at a slow speed. It will cut through that pin like a hot knife through butter.
On those flush and delicate pins I use a jewelers saw with the finest saw available to get between the scale and tang. You've already drilled a nice tiny hole so a 1/16 bit should work at very slow speed.
A Dremel with a tiny ball-end burr is quite good for this sort of thing too - you need to enlarge the cupped depression in the middle of the pin right up to the sides, because the pin mushrooms or flares out in the hole in the scales and deepening the hole in the pin and making the sides thin make it cave in on itself when you drift it out with a punch.
Heat is still a problem - I usually get a wet rag and wrap it around the area to draw the heat away, but you still have to stop and start to avoid melt-down of the plastic.
Regards,
Neil
I use "1/16" cobalt split point" bits for all pin extractions and they seem to be the best for the job. The split point bits don't walk around like some of the other bits do. If you have shorter bits, (1 5/8" or less), they don't give as much as the long bits do, making them easier to guide. A drop of oil on the bit keep the pin from overheating too quickly always works for me.
The bits seem to cut easier & longer with easy steady pressure rather than allot of pressure all at once, which always dulls my bits quickly. I've also used ice water to cool the pin before I start drilling ~ takes the pin much longer to heat up when it's ice cold. Once you're done drilling, use a 1/16" punch & small hammer, preferably a 4oz. ball peen, to lightly tap the pin out.
If the pin will not budge with the punch & hammer, I have used an automatic center punch to remove stubborn pins. This is last resort though, and the automatic punch needs modifications before using it on something as delicate as a straight razor.
On how to remove stubborn pins, I saved this thread to the Workshop sticky keep the ideas coming guys... :tu
+1 on Mainaman's advice. I've had good luck with taping the surrounding area and using a punch. Nice easy tapping.
Although...having read the thread, I'm liking Max's advice with a jewler's saw. Time for a new tool? Hmmmm....
I guess you could use the Jewelers saw trick and sacrifice the wedge also..
Lawson,
Instead of using a drill bit, switch over to a fine, cone-shaped grinding point.
Make sure that whatever is doing the grinding (Dremel, small drill press, etc.) cannot wander.
Also make sure that the rivet end is always misted with coolant.
Apply the grinding point for only a second or two, pull back and mist the area with coolant again.
If you repeat this procedure you should be able to grind off the end of the pin without harming either the scales or the surrounding cheek plate.
- Ignatz
This may sound stupid but I've seen this done more then once if using a hand drill make sure its going forward and not in reverse.
The first pins I knocked out of the scales were very difficult to shift; I had used the file down technique. I almost gave up. I had to hammer the punch much harder than when peening and was prepared to lose the scales. I guess this is the crucial point. If the scales are to be used again then there is a dilemma. Maybe it was beginner's "ill-luck" as since then the pins I have removed have come out fairly easily. And I have used the flush cutters approach.
Either a fresh cobalt bit and a starter dimple from a very sharp punch or a a very small diamond tip bit like for dentistry also with a starter punch have worked for me.
The split point drill are a good idea, but not the perfect answer.
We used to break the web of regular "jobber" drill by ourselves... And this served two purposes. It thinned the web that just rubs and doesn't truly cut, and it cut the helix angle to zero, which is what brass likes. We always used high speed steel drills and toolbits with zero degree rake on brass.
Many guys would keep a set of drills so modified just for brass, but I always broke the web as needed for the job at hand.
It's always good to have a few small center drills on hand also, because they're short and don't walk.
The auto center punch is a great idea also, it helps to start the drill down the center of the pin.
Disclaimer... While I used to take pride in being able to sharpen the smallest drills by hand, Mother Nature has taken her toll on my eyesight... I now leave it to the younger guys... The few in the trade that still know, and were taught, how...
Today drills are tossed when dull, but not when I started out! :confused:
For those with access to a milling machine of a drill press with a table that a vice can be bolted or clamped to... Problem solved. You can clamp on the tang and do your centering before any cutting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlacknTan
+1 to all said here. I was the last class of Machinests from W.E.Grady Tech school before they closed up that program, and worked in an engine machining shop for a while.
One of the greatest tools you can get yourself, is a set of the magnifying visors. Suddenly, I can sharpen my drills again!
But remember kids, the bits you sharpen for brass, MAY NOT be the right choice for drilling the nickle silver! (well, thats arguable) :argue:
On rare occasions a pin can be welded to the tang thru corrosion. The scales will snap before these budge. On those it is best to gently flex the scale away from the pin once you have cleared the peen.
I recently made the "drilled-through pliers" device to do the initial peen (to hold the first washer); hopefully some of you know what I'm talking about. To tunnel a hole slightly smaller than the 1/16" pin-rod, I had a pack of 1.15mm Cobalt Drill Bits on hand. I also live in Texas, which means I have my share of handgun cleaning and lubricating supplies.
I found that using a quality gun oil (one with Teflon) combined with the 1.15mm cobalt bit, I could poke through these pins easier than a knife cuts through butter; and since the drill is smaller than the 1/16" pin, there is a slight margin for error. It's surprising how much of a difference this oil makes. I hope this two cents helps.
I think there exists no wholesale purchase option for collars on the internet..