Thread: Advice on Pins

I was going to pop this Robeson blade out to work on it and set about de-pinning the razor, and got into trouble. First, the pins were very much flush with the bolsters, no washers. Couldn't get a grip with my side-snippers. So then I thought I'd drill them out a little, but the pins are very hard and I almost started melting the celluloid of the scales!

Now I'm in too far to back out but can't figure out how to get the pins out.

I'm sore in need of some good, experienced advice!

Originally Posted by LawsonStone

.. I thought I'd drill them out a little..

Looks to me you got a nice clean start there, so I'm guessing you got the right idea? Drill, a little at a time. Cool off, perhaps with a glass of ice water?

I'm not aware of any other way, but perhaps I'll learn something as well here

Edit: Those scales will look awsome.

One drop of oil and a new bit should do the trick...

Go from both sides, this really works on stuck pins

File, tap.. switch sides file, tap with 1/16 punch pin never tap harder than you would to peen a pin




These are different ideas that work for me

tape around the pin the file flat then use a center punch to tap the pin out.
The risk here is that you might take the metal inlays off.

Looks to me like the bit is not biting in enough. Switch to a cobalt bit and drill at a slow speed. It will cut through that pin like a hot knife through butter.

On those flush and delicate pins I use a jewelers saw with the finest saw available to get between the scale and tang. You've already drilled a nice tiny hole so a 1/16 bit should work at very slow speed.

A Dremel with a tiny ball-end burr is quite good for this sort of thing too - you need to enlarge the cupped depression in the middle of the pin right up to the sides, because the pin mushrooms or flares out in the hole in the scales and deepening the hole in the pin and making the sides thin make it cave in on itself when you drift it out with a punch.

Heat is still a problem - I usually get a wet rag and wrap it around the area to draw the heat away, but you still have to stop and start to avoid melt-down of the plastic.

Regards,
Neil

I use "1/16" cobalt split point" bits for all pin extractions and they seem to be the best for the job. The split point bits don't walk around like some of the other bits do. If you have shorter bits, (1 5/8" or less), they don't give as much as the long bits do, making them easier to guide. A drop of oil on the bit keep the pin from overheating too quickly always works for me.
The bits seem to cut easier & longer with easy steady pressure rather than allot of pressure all at once, which always dulls my bits quickly. I've also used ice water to cool the pin before I start drilling ~ takes the pin much longer to heat up when it's ice cold. Once you're done drilling, use a 1/16" punch & small hammer, preferably a 4oz. ball peen, to lightly tap the pin out.
If the pin will not budge with the punch & hammer, I have used an automatic center punch to remove stubborn pins. This is last resort though, and the automatic punch needs modifications before using it on something as delicate as a straight razor.

On how to remove stubborn pins, I saved this thread to the Workshop sticky keep the ideas coming guys...

+1 on Mainaman's advice. I've had good luck with taping the surrounding area and using a punch. Nice easy tapping.

Although...having read the thread, I'm liking Max's advice with a jewler's saw. Time for a new tool? Hmmmm....