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Thread: How were tang stamps made?
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12-13-2010, 11:26 AM #1
How were tang stamps made?
I've made a couple of razors, and tried to put my mark on the tang by painting it with nail polish which would be removed after etching. But I am not happy with the results. I'd like to create deep stamps like on basically every solingen or sheffield razors I've owned.
How were these made?Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
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12-13-2010, 12:35 PM #2
I am not a pro nor have I done this.
I believe this might be something you are looking for. If memory serves me correctly you can get custom made stamps so all you have to do is line it up and smack it in place. But, as I said before, I've never done this.
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Bruno (12-13-2010)
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12-13-2010, 12:48 PM #3
Yeah Bruno, that's how I think it was done - harder-than-steel pressure stamps, either by hand (heavy hammer) or by hydraulic press. You could probably use something like an arbor press or even a jack with a custom made jig to hold the stamp and the tang..
I think deep stamped makers marks look far classier than surface etching/laser engraving or electro-chemical etching, though it all depends on the mark I suppose - high detail/fine text would require laser etching I would think..
See here for custom stamps:
Infinity Stamps - Quality Custom Metal Stamps for Marking Steel, Jewelry, Leather, Clay, Wood and Plastics
Buckeye Engraving Custom Steel Hand Stamps
- Mike
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Bruno (12-13-2010)
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12-13-2010, 05:47 PM #4
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Thanked: 1371I was at a renaissance festival where they were making stamped (struck) coins. They had a 500# weight that was cranked up to a height of about six feet on a block and tackle. They would pull a lever on it and the weight would fall onto a die that was placed on top of the coin. They claimed that is how coins were struck 200 years ago.
You might also want to look into electrochemical etching. I have an etching machine that works well, but I am having problems creating stencils for it. There are places that you can order stencils with your maker's mark though.
I had hoped to be able to re-create etches that were on the blade, to allow for buffing of deep pitting then replacing the etches that were buffed off. I have not yet been able to make a functional stencil for it.
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12-13-2010, 05:52 PM #5
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Thanked: 20Die-struck stamping is the way it is typically done as others have already said. This would typically be done prior to heat treatment of course.
You could also try you hand at hand chiseling your mark such as the Japanese do. Though it requires small chisels. You can always make your own too. *edit* or you could make your own stamp...
If you have any interest in trying it this way; let me know. Or, depending on the complexity of your mark, i might be talked into taking a crack at making a stamp.Last edited by D.Sweet; 12-13-2010 at 07:28 PM.
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12-14-2010, 08:26 AM #6
It’s a fascinating topic…a die maker using files and gravers would cut (engrave) the design or letters/words of the makers mark on a block of annealed steel in reverse relief (it would look similar to like a typebar in an old mechanical typewriter). When the engraving is done the block would then be hardened and tempered.
As you can imagine this was a time consuming job. He would probably make several for a single client (I suspect the dies didn’t last very long).
At the cutlery, the forger, after forging the blade, would heat the blade to red then with a blow of the hammer strike the mark on the tang with the die. The blade would then be hardened and tempered.
The art of reverse die making (die-sinking) is almost a lost art (with the exception of a few folks at the US mint) so it will be difficult or impossible to find a die cutter today… at a reasonable price. This is why all open razor-makers today etch the mark; I suggest you do the same unless you want to take up the art and make your own.
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12-14-2010, 09:10 AM #7
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Thanked: 983If you do opt for having a steel stamp made for hand stamping, as opposed to hydraulic press, it helps to keep your mark fairly small. I had one made for my knife making and it is a bugger to use (I'll make a jig to hold it for multiple strikes one day) as it is a little too big. A longer striking surface adds to the chances of an unevenly impressed mark.
I think it will be a non issue if you are thinking along the lines of razor tangs though. The stamp for that will be fairly small anyway.
Mick
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12-18-2010, 10:13 PM #8
Bruno, I got my hand stamps from this outfit. They will custom design anything you want. Of course, you must stamp before you harden.
Buckeye Engraving Custom Steel Hand Stamps
Bob @ OCD Razors