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I purchased an Allen and Sons razor a while back and just got it sharpened through SRD, gave it a shave, but having a loose blade just makes it seem unsteady. I know the blade moves a bit on the pin, i'd like to fix it, but don't want to ruin the decorative scales. Is there I can discover the culprit, and if so, what should be my next step?
Hmmmm.
Loose pins will make a blade swing freely...
Oversized hole can make the blade jiggle when it's got loose pins. Does your blade move back and forth on the pin when you hold it?
Tighten the pins with the back of a soup spoon, light light taps. See where that goes.
Yes the blade moves on the pin when I hold it, I can shift it forward and back when holdin the scale, so I assume from what you've said it's an oversized hole...now what?Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxi
Unpin the razor and sleeve the pivot.
I use brass tube. Get a piece that is 1/16" inside diameter. Cut a section a little longer than width of tang at pivot. A utility knife works good for me as I roll the tube on hard surface. Place cut section in pivot, and with a center punch to fit the sleeve in the hole, repeat on other side.
Put a piece of 1/16 rod in the finished sleeve to be certain it is straight. If not, drill the brass sleeve to square up.
If very worn, may need to telescope the next size tube, having double layers.
Others instead will fill with epoxy like jb weld and drill it out when dry
Glenn did a nice post about it, and in additional comments are part numbers for popular brand of tube used if need to order
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...zed-pivot.html
before you unpin, try to tighten the pin.
If that does not work re-pin.
Sleeving does not always work well, if the pin hole is punched and is not striaght sleeving will cause the razor to close off center and may be even hit the scales. Id there is such problem with the pin hole you will need to first fix it before sleeving.
I will definitely try to tighten the pin first, as that may help. However I am already at the point where the razor does not close centered. I have access to all the restor gear I may need as I work in a metalshop. Hopefully tightening the pin works or it's off to harbor freight for some brass rods.
I've never noticed any ill effects of an oversized hole when repinning, unless the whole is so big that the thrust washers (if used) fall into the hole. But I wouldn't consider myself an experienced rescaler by any means; I have not done that many razors.
another option is to use steel epoxy. I've done that a couple times. Mix it externally from the razor, and apply with a pin or toothpick. Dry. Drill a new hole at 5/64". Use 1/16" rod to re-pin the razor.
By my experience you are correct, most of the time there is no problem at all. The only thing that happens when the pin hole is oversized is the tang will have room to move up and down. When there is need to sleeve the hole, one has to make sure it is straight, most of the time they are punched not very straight which can cause the blade to sit askew and hit the scales.Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
Now in regards to building a repair/restoration type kit, where would I start? A hardware store or hobby store? Harbor Freight? Home depot, etc.? Also what are the bare essentials in your opinion as a "starter kit"?
there used to be a sticky with all the how to restoration links for threads and supply stores.
I do not know what happened to it.
You can use the search for restoration threads and get all the info from there, you will know what to get after your research.
Basic gear you will need is 4oz peen hammer, fluch cutters, center punch (1/16), flat file, 1/16 brass rod, washers and a metal block/ anvil to peen on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Also it depends on the actual rescale.. When many of us custom rescale now, we tend to do so with tighter tolerances then they used in the old days, and even now-a-days ie: TI and their 1/4 inch gap between razor and wedge... So that pin slop can become a problem depending on how tight you want the Custom Rescale to be... It takes less time to sleeve the pin, then it took to type this out, and costs about 1 penny to do,,, so to me it is a moot point, I just sleeve them if it fits....
I've owned two disembodied blade of basically the same Wade and Butcher razor of the 1830s, so identified because it was a short-lived predecessor of the true hollow grind. One had an elongated hole, allowing some longitudinal movement with any size of pin which would pass through it, while the other had a slightly smaller and true circular hole. I would guess that plenty of razors vary as much. There was enough metal in the tang to safely round off the elongated hole with a diamond burr, and use a turned silver pin 3/32"diameter at the ends, with a larger diameter between the scales. I think 1/16in. riveting is fine in brass or nickel silver, but silver is softer.
As an alternative, with most other metal objects I would advise tapping in a slightly tapered and slightly oval brass or copper rod as far as it would go. I'd cut it off slightly proud of the steel, hammer it to expand it, and file flush. I don't recommend this in the very hard and brittle steel of a razor, which could easily break. I'd tap it in veryt cautiously, epoxy it in place, and then drill for the pivot.
For me, it has nothing to do with tolerance. Unless I really pull on a blade, it won't move, even if the pin hole is oversized. Unless, as I stated above, the thrust washer falls into the hole. But if you need to do something to get your blades to center/not hit the wedge/not move, then using a sleeve seems like a good option.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun