Source for Ivory for razor scale repair?

I have a beautiful antique I. Dowler English razor that has a broken scale. I've searched the web a bunch trying to find a piece of ivory to reproduce this broken half of the scale, but am having trouble finding anything in a 6 inch length. The piece I need is rather thin (about 1/16") x 6 x .75.
Any tips for a good legal source?
I know some may elect to epoxy on a new piece the repair the broken tip, but what I'd prefer to do is replace the broken scale but keep the broken original with the razor for originality.

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Have a look in the classifieds under 'misc' - I think one of our members has a legal source and advertises there.
Lovely scales BTW

Have you tried this place? I used to buy ivory from them years ago and they were good folks to work with.

Boone Trading Company - Ivory and Scrimshaw

I use ivory for saddles and nuts on acoustic guitars. My source is from Bob Colosi. His website:

Welcome to Custom Guitar Saddles - General Information

Bob buys very old elephant tusks that were brought into the country by diplomats over the years and given as gifts. They're legal that way. Of course, saddles and nuts are much smaller than what you're looking for but if you contact him, perhaps he'd have larger pieces.

Good luck.

The classified's & boones was where I would have sent you, but these guys beat me to it. In the classifie3d's I do believe he will cut them to thickness so all you will need to do is smooth sand & shape the new piece. I'd do exactly as you are planning myself. Please show the finished product once done.
Scott

Just a word of caution. You may already know this but don't get ivory to hot. It is heat sensitive and if it gets too hot it can crack or warp.

Ray

Ray is correct,heat generated while sanding or buffing can cause Ivory to de-laminate as can water,(no wet sanding).
Biggest mistake people make with Ivory is to seal it with such things as CA glues,polys, etc,It needs to move with changes in Humidity,Use mineral oil or renwax only.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Ray is correct,heat generated while sanding or buffing can cause Ivory to de-laminate as can water,(no wet sanding).
Biggest mistake people make with Ivory is to seal it with such things as CA glues,polys, etc,It needs to move with changes in Humidity,Use mineral oil or renwax only.

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Not to get too far off topic, but.....
Does the mineral oil or ren wax keep the water from shaving out of the scales?

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Ray is correct,heat generated while sanding or buffing can cause Ivory to de-laminate as can water,(no wet sanding).
Biggest mistake people make with Ivory is to seal it with such things as CA glues,polys, etc,It needs to move with changes in Humidity,Use mineral oil or renwax only.

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So what would be the best way to finish the ivory after rough shaping? Dry sand to a high grit and hand polish?

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Originally Posted by medicevans

Not to get too far off topic, but.....
Does the mineral oil or ren wax keep the water from shaving out of the scales?

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No, thats why both are used by museums and collectors of high grade Netsuki (SP)?
Ivory wants to be at equalibrium with it's surroundings,it has to be able to transpire (breath)
Best way I have found to put a high gloss polish on Ivory is to take it down to about 600 grit,than using White compound on a dedicated soft wheel,polish it,than treat it with Mineral oil,that will bring out the grain.
One thing I always tell people that buy Ivory,my humidity here in Kali is about 40% Year round, You live in Florida,Let it set for a few weeks before doing your final fittings,It can move as much as .004.
This is esp. critical for inlay work and the people that use Ivory for pool que ferrells.
Those that do razors scales,keep the blades a tad on the loose side when pinning,check back in a week.
One other thing,when final sanding,DO NOT use Black wet or dry,the black color will get into the grain and stain it.

Well, I received a very nice piece of ivory from Bill (pixelfixed) for a very reasonable price.
Hopefully I will have a chance to work on the scales this weekend, and will post photos of the razor when completed.
Thanks for all of the advice shared.

I've had excellent finishes with ivory scales by hand sanding them up to 2,000 grit, then using black, then white, then blue jewelers rouge (buffing compound). These are best used on a soft buffing wheel in a buffer, or short of that, on an arbor placed into a drill (held by a vice, or if you're stupid like me, in-between your legs)

Those are some sweet scales, good luck

Check the eBay seller "kousins kustoms". He is a legal source with large selection.

I promised finished photos so here they are. I had to try to age the new (very white) ivory scale so I ended up submerging it in tea for a little while. By constantly checking the staining and being careful to not overdo it, I think that I got the new scale pretty darn close in appearance. Thanks to all who posted with guidance. Now all that's left is to hone up the blade and shave with it.

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Looks drop dead perfect:) great work.

Well done! I would never suspect it was a replacement scale if I had just seen the finished photos. Top marks.

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Originally Posted by MattW

I promised finished photos so here they are. I had to try to age the new (very white) ivory scale so I ended up submerging it in tea for a little while. By constantly checking the staining and being careful to not overdo it, I think that I got the new scale pretty darn close in appearance. Thanks to all who posted with guidance. Now all that's left is to hone up the blade and shave with it.

Attachment 87305Attachment 87306Attachment 87307

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Very nice work. Thanks for sharing.

It looks like aged Scrimshaw. Fantastic job! How long did you soak it and how often did you check it?

Incredible matching! You should be proud of that work!

Incredible matching! Awesome job. I too am interested in how long you did the soak. No problems with the water contact?

I use to repare an scale that is not complet with polyester mastic, you´ll can not get neither the same colour nor the same texture but you conserve the original scale and in the future anybody will can diference the original in front of the rapared, is an idea