Thread: Source for Ivory for razor scale repair?

I have a beautiful antique I. Dowler English razor that has a broken scale. I've searched the web a bunch trying to find a piece of ivory to reproduce this broken half of the scale, but am having trouble finding anything in a 6 inch length. The piece I need is rather thin (about 1/16") x 6 x .75.
Any tips for a good legal source?
I know some may elect to epoxy on a new piece the repair the broken tip, but what I'd prefer to do is replace the broken scale but keep the broken original with the razor for originality.

Have a look in the classifieds under 'misc' - I think one of our members has a legal source and advertises there.
Lovely scales BTW

Have you tried this place? I used to buy ivory from them years ago and they were good folks to work with.

Boone Trading Company - Ivory and Scrimshaw

I use ivory for saddles and nuts on acoustic guitars. My source is from Bob Colosi. His website:

Welcome to Custom Guitar Saddles - General Information

Bob buys very old elephant tusks that were brought into the country by diplomats over the years and given as gifts. They're legal that way. Of course, saddles and nuts are much smaller than what you're looking for but if you contact him, perhaps he'd have larger pieces.

Good luck.

The classified's & boones was where I would have sent you, but these guys beat me to it. In the classifie3d's I do believe he will cut them to thickness so all you will need to do is smooth sand & shape the new piece. I'd do exactly as you are planning myself. Please show the finished product once done.
Scott

Just a word of caution. You may already know this but don't get ivory to hot. It is heat sensitive and if it gets too hot it can crack or warp.

Ray

Ray is correct,heat generated while sanding or buffing can cause Ivory to de-laminate as can water,(no wet sanding).
Biggest mistake people make with Ivory is to seal it with such things as CA glues,polys, etc,It needs to move with changes in Humidity,Use mineral oil or renwax only.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Ray is correct,heat generated while sanding or buffing can cause Ivory to de-laminate as can water,(no wet sanding).
Biggest mistake people make with Ivory is to seal it with such things as CA glues,polys, etc,It needs to move with changes in Humidity,Use mineral oil or renwax only.

Not to get too far off topic, but.....
Does the mineral oil or ren wax keep the water from shaving out of the scales?

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Ray is correct,heat generated while sanding or buffing can cause Ivory to de-laminate as can water,(no wet sanding).
Biggest mistake people make with Ivory is to seal it with such things as CA glues,polys, etc,It needs to move with changes in Humidity,Use mineral oil or renwax only.

So what would be the best way to finish the ivory after rough shaping? Dry sand to a high grit and hand polish?

Originally Posted by medicevans

Not to get too far off topic, but.....
Does the mineral oil or ren wax keep the water from shaving out of the scales?

No, thats why both are used by museums and collectors of high grade Netsuki (SP)?
Ivory wants to be at equalibrium with it's surroundings,it has to be able to transpire (breath)
Best way I have found to put a high gloss polish on Ivory is to take it down to about 600 grit,than using White compound on a dedicated soft wheel,polish it,than treat it with Mineral oil,that will bring out the grain.
One thing I always tell people that buy Ivory,my humidity here in Kali is about 40% Year round, You live in Florida,Let it set for a few weeks before doing your final fittings,It can move as much as .004.
This is esp. critical for inlay work and the people that use Ivory for pool que ferrells.
Those that do razors scales,keep the blades a tad on the loose side when pinning,check back in a week.
One other thing,when final sanding,DO NOT use Black wet or dry,the black color will get into the grain and stain it.