Ok so I want to make a set of wood scales and I'm kinda a novice when it comes to wood working. Do I stain and then put a water proof sealer on the scales or just the sealer or just the stain?
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Ok so I want to make a set of wood scales and I'm kinda a novice when it comes to wood working. Do I stain and then put a water proof sealer on the scales or just the sealer or just the stain?
I'd stain the wood then seal it, I think there might be wood stains that also water proof the wood but I have not used any of those.
If you decide to stain the wood first, you need to make sure you apply the wood stain appropriately . What I mean is, that dry woods will take on the stain easy, while oily woods will need wash coats (stain mixed with thinner such as alcohol ) to get the stain in deeper. The sealing also has to be done correctly to work properly and for best results. Finally keep in mind usually stained wood will go darker with time.
+1 to mainaman's advice above with the added caveat that staining isn't *necessary* but rather something you will want to do or not want to do depending on the wood you have at hand, how it reacts to stain, and what you want it to look like at the end of the day.
Also, your choice of finish may influence your decision whether or not to stain. Some finishes are designed to be applied over stain while others may not be. I'm thinking of something like CA glue here which is great because of its ability to sink into, and thereby strengthen, the wood. If the pores are already filled in whole or part by stain, that might affect the performance of the finish. But I've never tried CA over stain, so that's just a guess. :)
Good luck!
Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).
Couldn't agree more. Depending on the wood, I have used either CA or 100% tung oil and have had great results with both.Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT
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Originally Posted by Cangooner
After reading posts about CA glue I think I'm gonna stay away. Sounds like a long, messy, and difficult process. Although it's probably woth it in the end. But as a wood working Novice the easier my first scales are to make the better. The tung oil sounds like a great idea. Does it water proof the wood or will I need a sealant? I may one day choose to make a CA glue finish but for now looking for something more natural
+1 its hard to beat a hand rubbed oil finish. It will bring even plain looking woods to life. A little tip, depending on the wood your working with, some have large pores and an easy way to fill them is to apply th first one or two coats of oil with fine sand paper, 320 or 400 grit. Wipe any excess off across the grain. It will make a slurry and fill the pores nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT
100% tung is good
Pure boiled linseed oil is too, but takes forever to cure
A good natural mix is boiled linseed oil/beeswax/turpentine in a 1:1:1 ratio.
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is a good alternative that dries quickly.
Linspeed oil works well too.
Shellac is nice but doesn't like water very much.
Let us know which wood you want to use and we can walk you through it, best finish, etc.
-Xander
I mostly use CA on wood that I feel needs strengthening (spalted maple for example which can be very light and soft when untreated and which benefits from the strengthening and hardening effect of the CA). It is a more involved process than tung oil and can involve many payers of application and sanding. But it does give a great finish. If you're a woodworking novice, then it's probably a decent idea to go with the oil. :)
For info on tung oil, click on the 'Tech' and 'Instr' links on this page: 100% Pure Tung Oil - Lee Valley Tools
Good luck!
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Originally Posted by fast14riot
Thank you so much. You guys have been a great help. Hopefully I can hit the lumber store today and figure something out. I'm looking for a dark wood, But something that's durable with an awesome grain pattern. Any suggestions?
Bocote or cocobolo maybe? Zebrawood tends to have great grain, but may be lighter than you're seeking.
When you're picking your wood, don't forget that its appearance will change when it has a finish applied. Get a bit of the wood wet to see what it will look like finished.
Happy hunting :)
Just looked up the woods you recommended and I think the cocobolo is the one I'm going to go with. Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by Cangooner
Another great option is desert ironwood. I would stay away from burls right now, they can be brittle and have other difficulties when working like inclusions and such. Curly koa is beautiful as well, but a litte pricey.
-Xander
One of the things I've learned in sailing is sealers are generally bad for wood in the long term.
Oils such as linseed with keep liquid water out, but allow vapors in and out, meaning the wood wont get soaked and can breath. Any vapors that get in will easily escape, and any liquids that get in through a poorly treated spot can freely evaporate back out. It's also easier to maintain as you just rub a little more in when it needs it.
Sealers like a lacquer will block liquid and vapor in both directions. Once a break in a lacquer is made, be it through wear, a scratch, the blade rubbing where it rests on the scales or drilling the pin holes, water as a liquid can get into the wood and saturate it, but the vapors can never escape except a small amount through whatever small entry point it had. Over time, which is relevant since razors are meant to last a lifetime, that can ruin wooden scales, especially if a naturally dry wood is used. The more resinous varieties would naturally last longer.
Just my $0.02 :)
Thank you for the advice. I'm thinking of using tung oil now instead of a sealantQuote:
Originally Posted by KenWeir
Look into padauk.. I love the color. Did my W&B (first scale build) with that wood, still got some left.
Oh wow that's a gorgeous wood. I like that a lot. How long have you had them on your W&B?Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT
'07-'08 most likely. No issues with the scales but I might eventually take'em apart and put in a different wedge (currently using a flat one). Might even make a new set, just finished in Truoil, with a bit better shape and no brass liners. Currently focusing on guns, so I don't have the time for anything but honing.Quote:
Originally Posted by RARamirez
Ive used these pen blanks from leevalley before for scales and they work great. Also gives you an idea of what the wood looks like.
Figured & Exotic Wood Blanks - Lee Valley Tools
How do you apply the truoil. After reading on tung oil it sounds like a long process. I want something fairly easy to applyQuote:
Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT
They have thinner planks, about 30x8x0.5cm. Those don't have to be split to make razor scales. Just shape on the belt-sander. One word of warning when dealing with oil-rich exotic woods: Don't work with the wood in living quarters, clean up the mess and always wear a mask. They contain oils that can cause allergic reactions, nasty stuff, so you don't wanna be breathing in the dust.Quote:
Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY
My next project might also be in chechen (got an extra plank) ;)
Here's what you do with wooden scales. Light a fire, get it nice and hot, and then throw those scales in there. Then go make scales out of something nice instead! :D :p
James.
Honestly if you are thinking wood scales you should first decide on the wood and then decide on the finish...
There is a ton of hints and tricks to finishing woods not only on here but also by way of Google, be careful when reading on some of the wood working forums as Scales and many projects have nothing in common :(
ie: match the finish to the wood there are other oils that work very well on tight grain look at Danish oil and Teak oil too
For a really good scale wood look at Lignum Vitae, it is near waterproof with out a finish, easy to cut, work, and polish too
TruOil will give the wood a shiny appearance whereas the oils (linseed & tung) will give it a luster. I prefer the linseed and tung oils better although they take longer to finish.
Ironically it is great for sealing & waterproofing wood prior to applying your chosen finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by fast14riot
Tru-Oil gives a nice deep finish that is easy to touch up if needed. You can accelerate the application process by using armorall as a catalyst to cure it in minutes. I've done 15 coats in one afternoon that way. Do a google search for woodstocks amazing stock finish for specific details.Quote:
Originally Posted by jbtusa
Here is 8 coats of Tru-Oil on some plain mahagony. I since have cut the shine back a bit with #0000 steel wool to give a wonderful satin finish. But do pick the wood first, and then the finish will be determined by that.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t/DSCN1809.jpg
-Xander
Boy it has been a looong time since I have posted anything. You are putting the cart before the horse. The first issue is deciding on what wood you want. You mention cocobolo which is nice but has a lot of challenges in working. First off, the dust will kill you so ware a respirator and run a dust collector. Second issue, cocobolo has a very, very high oil content. There are only a few finishes that will work. The oils in the wood will keep most finishes sticky, it will never fully cure. You can wipe on an oil finish to deepen the wood color but something like true oil, tung oil, urethane, etc... will not harden. You need to use a chemically hardened finish like CA, Epoxy resin, or a catalyzed urethane. The nice thing about cocobolo is that it is naturally water resistant. You can sand it up through 2000 grit then hit it with some white buffing compound to put a nice sheen on it and leave it as is.
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Originally Posted by gssixgun
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Originally Posted by cannonfodder
Hmmmmm I think maybe we might have done this a time or two in the past :)
Also remember most oils if not all will darken the wood so some extent "kind of hide the grain" so you will want to know what you want your wood to look like when it is done.
I did a quick search of Tru-oil/ Armor All. Here is what I found interesting.......Using Armor All to speed up drying time of Tru Oil [Archive] - Telecaster Guitar Forum
Please note the use of Japan Drier in place of Armor All. No silicone if that is a concern to anyone.