Thread: Wooden scales. Water proofed or stained?

Ok so I want to make a set of wood scales and I'm kinda a novice when it comes to wood working. Do I stain and then put a water proof sealer on the scales or just the sealer or just the stain?

I'd stain the wood then seal it, I think there might be wood stains that also water proof the wood but I have not used any of those.
If you decide to stain the wood first, you need to make sure you apply the wood stain appropriately . What I mean is, that dry woods will take on the stain easy, while oily woods will need wash coats (stain mixed with thinner such as alcohol ) to get the stain in deeper. The sealing also has to be done correctly to work properly and for best results. Finally keep in mind usually stained wood will go darker with time.

+1 to mainaman's advice above with the added caveat that staining isn't *necessary* but rather something you will want to do or not want to do depending on the wood you have at hand, how it reacts to stain, and what you want it to look like at the end of the day.

Also, your choice of finish may influence your decision whether or not to stain. Some finishes are designed to be applied over stain while others may not be. I'm thinking of something like CA glue here which is great because of its ability to sink into, and thereby strengthen, the wood. If the pores are already filled in whole or part by stain, that might affect the performance of the finish. But I've never tried CA over stain, so that's just a guess.

Good luck!

Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).

Couldn't agree more. Depending on the wood, I have used either CA or 100% tung oil and have had great results with both.

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Couldn't agree more. Depending on the wood, I have used either CA or 100% tung oil and have had great results with both.

After reading posts about CA glue I think I'm gonna stay away. Sounds like a long, messy, and difficult process. Although it's probably woth it in the end. But as a wood working Novice the easier my first scales are to make the better. The tung oil sounds like a great idea. Does it water proof the wood or will I need a sealant? I may one day choose to make a CA glue finish but for now looking for something more natural

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Another option is to go natural and use linseed oil or tung oil (the real stuff, not the chemical cocktails).

+1 its hard to beat a hand rubbed oil finish. It will bring even plain looking woods to life. A little tip, depending on the wood your working with, some have large pores and an easy way to fill them is to apply th first one or two coats of oil with fine sand paper, 320 or 400 grit. Wipe any excess off across the grain. It will make a slurry and fill the pores nicely.

100% tung is good
Pure boiled linseed oil is too, but takes forever to cure
A good natural mix is boiled linseed oil/beeswax/turpentine in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is a good alternative that dries quickly.

Linspeed oil works well too.

Shellac is nice but doesn't like water very much.

Let us know which wood you want to use and we can walk you through it, best finish, etc.

-Xander

I mostly use CA on wood that I feel needs strengthening (spalted maple for example which can be very light and soft when untreated and which benefits from the strengthening and hardening effect of the CA). It is a more involved process than tung oil and can involve many payers of application and sanding. But it does give a great finish. If you're a woodworking novice, then it's probably a decent idea to go with the oil.

For info on tung oil, click on the 'Tech' and 'Instr' links on this page: 100% Pure Tung Oil - Lee Valley Tools

Good luck!

Originally Posted by fast14riot

+1 its hard to beat a hand rubbed oil finish. It will bring even plain looking woods to life. A little tip, depending on the wood your working with, some have large pores and an easy way to fill them is to apply th first one or two coats of oil with fine sand paper, 320 or 400 grit. Wipe any excess off across the grain. It will make a slurry and fill the pores nicely.

100% tung is good
Pure boiled linseed oil is too, but takes forever to cure
A good natural mix is boiled linseed oil/beeswax/turpentine in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is a good alternative that dries quickly.

Linspeed oil works well too.

Shellac is nice but doesn't like water very much.

Let us know which wood you want to use and we can walk you through it, best finish, etc.

-Xander

Thank you so much. You guys have been a great help. Hopefully I can hit the lumber store today and figure something out. I'm looking for a dark wood, But something that's durable with an awesome grain pattern. Any suggestions?

Bocote or cocobolo maybe? Zebrawood tends to have great grain, but may be lighter than you're seeking.

When you're picking your wood, don't forget that its appearance will change when it has a finish applied. Get a bit of the wood wet to see what it will look like finished.

Happy hunting