Thread: Wooden scales. Water proofed or stained?

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Bocote or cocobolo maybe? Zebrawood tends to have great grain, but may be lighter than you're seeking.

When you're picking your wood, don't forget that its appearance will change when it has a finish applied. Get a bit of the wood wet to see what it will look like finished.

Happy hunting

Just looked up the woods you recommended and I think the cocobolo is the one I'm going to go with. Thank you

Another great option is desert ironwood. I would stay away from burls right now, they can be brittle and have other difficulties when working like inclusions and such. Curly koa is beautiful as well, but a litte pricey.


-Xander

One of the things I've learned in sailing is sealers are generally bad for wood in the long term.

Oils such as linseed with keep liquid water out, but allow vapors in and out, meaning the wood wont get soaked and can breath. Any vapors that get in will easily escape, and any liquids that get in through a poorly treated spot can freely evaporate back out. It's also easier to maintain as you just rub a little more in when it needs it.

Sealers like a lacquer will block liquid and vapor in both directions. Once a break in a lacquer is made, be it through wear, a scratch, the blade rubbing where it rests on the scales or drilling the pin holes, water as a liquid can get into the wood and saturate it, but the vapors can never escape except a small amount through whatever small entry point it had. Over time, which is relevant since razors are meant to last a lifetime, that can ruin wooden scales, especially if a naturally dry wood is used. The more resinous varieties would naturally last longer.

Just my $0.02

Originally Posted by KenWeir

One of the things I've learned in sailing is sealers are generally bad for wood in the long term.

Oils such as linseed with keep liquid water out, but allow vapors in and out, meaning the wood wont get soaked and can breath. Any vapors that get in will easily escape, and any liquids that get in through a poorly treated spot can freely evaporate back out. It's also easier to maintain as you just rub a little more in when it needs it.

Sealers like a lacquer will block liquid and vapor in both directions. Once a break in a lacquer is made, be it through wear, a scratch, the blade rubbing where it rests on the scales or drilling the pin holes, water as a liquid can get into the wood and saturate it, but the vapors can never escape except a small amount through whatever small entry point it had. Over time, which is relevant since razors are meant to last a lifetime, that can ruin wooden scales, especially if a naturally dry wood is used. The more resinous varieties would naturally last longer.

Just my $0.02

Thank you for the advice. I'm thinking of using tung oil now instead of a sealant

Look into padauk.. I love the color. Did my W&B (first scale build) with that wood, still got some left.

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Look into padauk.. I love the color. Did my W&B (first scale build) with that wood, still got some left.

Oh wow that's a gorgeous wood. I like that a lot. How long have you had them on your W&B?

Originally Posted by RARamirez

Oh wow that's a gorgeous wood. I like that a lot. How long have you had them on your W&B?

'07-'08 most likely. No issues with the scales but I might eventually take'em apart and put in a different wedge (currently using a flat one). Might even make a new set, just finished in Truoil, with a bit better shape and no brass liners. Currently focusing on guns, so I don't have the time for anything but honing.

Ive used these pen blanks from leevalley before for scales and they work great. Also gives you an idea of what the wood looks like.
Figured & Exotic Wood Blanks - Lee Valley Tools

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

'07-'08 most likely. No issues with the scales but I might eventually take'em apart and put in a different wedge (currently using a flat one). Might even make a new set, just finished in Truoil, with a bit better shape and no brass liners. Currently focusing on guns, so I don't have the time for anything but honing.

How do you apply the truoil. After reading on tung oil it sounds like a long process. I want something fairly easy to apply

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Ive used these pen blanks from leevalley before for scales and they work great. Also gives you an idea of what the wood looks like.
Figured & Exotic Wood Blanks - Lee Valley Tools

They have thinner planks, about 30x8x0.5cm. Those don't have to be split to make razor scales. Just shape on the belt-sander. One word of warning when dealing with oil-rich exotic woods: Don't work with the wood in living quarters, clean up the mess and always wear a mask. They contain oils that can cause allergic reactions, nasty stuff, so you don't wanna be breathing in the dust.

My next project might also be in chechen (got an extra plank)