Double Duck - Chipped spike point advice

Just got my first ever Bresnick DD Satinwedge in the mail today, the blade looks like it's barely been used, no honeware or anything. There is a SLIGHT chip at the point of the toe though.... I don't want to necessarily 'round off' the point, but also don't want this tiny little chip to cause me any bleeding!I am positive that over time this will hone out, but who can wait that long? I want to shave with it now!I was thinking of taking it to the edge of one of my hones and very lightly correcting the malformation...Any advice would be, as usual, very appreciated!

My apologies SatinEDGE not WEDGE!!!Also, sorry for the duplicate post... terrible internet permissions on the military base. Thanks guys :)

Well, yeah you could do a japanese style stroke until it is corrected, brad (undream22) has a video on youtube where he does his version of breadknifing...but it's not really breadknifing. There's a couple of approaches you could take, but I would start with the lesser of the evils and try the japanese stroke with 1 or 2 pieces of tape at about a 60* angle, and gradually bringing the spine down til you are on the spine again, get a pre-bevel set, kill the edge, go to one piece of tape and set your bevel as usual....just one approach without grinding the crap out of the steel.

If you can at some point, load some pics b/c everyone's opinion of slight is different, you may not even have to go the route I described above, and can just set a new bevel and hone away if it is small enough

A picture is worth a thousand words in a case like this . :shrug:

I'm on the pictures right now, just got home from work and had to make dinner for the expensive italian wife/mother in law/baby boy/doberman :)

As requested, here is the picture. It really is so minute when seen with the naked eye, I used my macro lens to get it as big and in focus as possible. Note the tarnish on the tip, the rest of the blade is immaculate and I'm certain it will come off with ease, it looks worse in the picture than it really is.

Attachment 110315

Been there fixed that, start w/ flat japanese strokes til you are to the back side of the chip, switch tape if you use it. kill the edge, then set the bevel as usual. start at 1k or 800 grit stone and go from there. It'll come out no problem.

Are you suggesting removing the steel until the bevel is at the back side of the chip? I'd rather not lose that much steel. I'd prefer to round it right at that point and when honing brings me to it over time, let it happen.

Just take the tip to the hone and round the tip to remove the chip. It's the only way to do it unless you want to waste alot of steel honing the entire edge out.

Yeah, pretty much what you'll have to do. B/c if you want to keep the square but want the blade flat the only way to do that is to level the existing steel past the point of the missing part to blend it together to make one edge. Basically the backside of the chip is your new pre-bevel placement. It sucks, but I don't know of any other way around it. You could PM Glen or Lynn with pics and ask their opinion; won't hurt my feelings bro, they may know of a way I don't yet.

Oh no worries Tiddle, your advice is very much appreciated! I just don't want to lose that much good steel. The rest of the steel is immaculate and in shave ready condition. I really think rounding that one small point is the best way to go.

Pretty much all you can do is what catrent suggested to save steel or what i suggested to save the square tip; depends on how dead set and how bad you want that square. It's your razor and money, so just give it some thought.

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Originally Posted by Catrentshaving

Just take the tip to the hone and round the tip to remove the chip. It's the only way to do it unless you want to waste alot of steel honing the entire edge out.

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+ 1 to the above, it doesn't look like you have to end up with a very rounded tip, just slightly muted.
I like to use a diamond hone like a DMT or the side of a 1K stone for this type of job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Catrentshaving

Just take the tip to the hone and round the tip to remove the chip. It's the only way to do it unless you want to waste alot of steel honing the entire edge out.

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+1 on that.

Had a similar chip in my DD Special and found it cut me while shaving. Today I put a small radius in the tip to take care of that using a diamond plate DMT and then a touch up hone. Don't care much for square points anyway.

Bob

I'm not too worried about having it square for now. My Boker King Cutter is a factory muted point and I love the shave from it. As much as I do enjoy that aggressive square point for doing my sideburns etc I'd prefer to keep as much steel! Thanks everyone and i'll let you know how it goes.

We are merely here to help. I definitely wouldn't tell you do it my way or it's wrong, or you are ruining that blade..unless you were really doing something..errr out there. lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Catrentshaving

Just take the tip to the hone and round the tip to remove the chip. It's the only way to do it unless you want to waste alot of steel honing the entire edge out.

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Word ! :tu

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Word ! :tu

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Yeh! What Jimmy and that shaved cat guy said!

Took me all of 5 minutes on the side of a hone to give the softest little round corner to the blade. Polished it up and all the distressed metal was returned to it's original glory. Put the bad boy on my buddies coticule with a thick muddy slurry and worked a progression of dilutions then finished it on my purple then black WHIGs. I don't have my own bevel setter yet so I was forced to do this.

This is by far the thinnest ground blade I have; I can see the metal flexing and popping back to it's original shape with the slightest of touches. The blade is so true and perfect and was a cinch to hone. It's taken an incredible edge and has the thinnest bevel of any of my 20+ razors.

I stropped the blade on my nylon webbing, then on a strop treated with cerium oxide, cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and finished it with 50 laps on an untreated leather strop.

Can't wait to shave with this bad boy!!!

The only other issue is that the spacer seems to be off and I think was the cause of the damage to the blade. I can't tell if it's been re-pinned or if the originals are in it. It's got a 3 pin configuration and because of the funny spacer issue, I plan on taking a very thin metal file to smooth the spacer and reduce it's size to avoid any more blade contact.

Thanks to everyone for their quick and useful tips! Every question I've had on this forum has been answered to the full extent and I've never been in a situation where I'm unsure of the steps to take to rectify an issue.

Watch out for my SOTD pics with this bad boy, it's going to be coming soon!