Thread: First attempt at resto - Red Imp

SO, as I get into straight razors and word gets around to my in-laws, it turns out that my wife's grandfather was a barber in the 50's, and her father still has his old straight razor. So, he mailed it to me for Christmas, not knowing a thing about it. So, it's a Red Imp 133, in rough shape. Lots of pitting, but the blade edge seems salvageable. Here's the before and after, just working on it for today. I used a die grinder with a 3M scotch brite pad and then a Dremel with a buffing wheel and some valve-lapping compound. I could do a lot more with it, but I just want to see if I can get this thing to shave first! Pretty cool that he was a barber for just about the same years as these were in production. This one may be from the first run by Case, in '52-ish?

Looks good! It cleaned up nice with the rust that was on it. I have an old red imp here (needs to be restored) and and it seems that the scales have shrunk over time. The blade actually hits the wedge so I had to be careful with it when I looked at it. Same blade too, the 133. It's not mine though, but I do like it.

This one has the same issue! Blade hits the wedge! Not sure what's up with that, but the spike point certainly isn't very forgiving of it. I straightened the scales as much as I could but they are pretty flimsy. A couple of taps with a 40oz Snap-On ball peen dead-blow hammer tightened the pins.

I wonder if there's some trick to stretching these scales back out? Maybe some mild heat and a bungee-cord jig?

The celluloid used was a poor grade and had poor quality control. I have seen a couple that the blade would not enter the scales at all due to a bad twist to one side with a really shrunk scale on that side.. A rescale seems to be the best answer. Then there is no future worry of celluloid rot of the blade.
~Richard

I forget where I heard this but it worked for me.

If you don't want to dismantle the razor take a hacksaw blade and insert it between the scales. Teeth towards the wedge!

I was able to shorten the wedge enough for the blade to clear.

great looking razor!
I've also had luck just angling the wedge slightly towards the blade to allow the tip of the razor pass.

Originally Posted by Geezer

The celluloid used was a poor grade and had poor quality control. I have seen a couple that the blade would not enter the scales at all due to a bad twist to one side with a really shrunk scale on that side.. A rescale seems to be the best answer. Then there is no future worry of celluloid rot of the blade.
~Richard

Needs repeating,, the shrinkage is the first sign of Celluloid Rot, Cell rot is BAD !!! The scales cannot be "fixed" the wedge being cut is a good quick fix for the razor closing but it doesn't fix the real problem...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Needs repeating,, the shrinkage is the first sign of Celluloid Rot, Cell rot is BAD !!! The scales cannot be "fixed" the wedge being cut is a good quick fix for the razor closing but it doesn't fix the real problem...

So what exactly happens with celluloid rot if I don't change the scales?

BTW, I found that the spine wear was a bit much and the edge had a bad flat spot in the center of the blade. Two layers of tape on the spine a lot of work on the 220 grit finally produced a consistent edge to progressively hone up. (Note to self: If it doesn't look good from the 220, none of the other stones will fix it!) I probably wouldn't fool with such a blade, except that it's an heirloom of sorts.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Needs repeating,, the shrinkage is the first sign of Celluloid Rot, Cell rot is BAD !!! The scales cannot be "fixed" the wedge being cut is a good quick fix for the razor closing but it doesn't fix the real problem...

Interesting. The Red Imp that I did the hacksaw method to had no signs of cell rot. I have 3 quarantined with cell rot in the corner of my shop and those scales have no signs of warping or shrinkage. I will keep an eye on the Imp.