I use 000 synthetic steel wool with MAAS. Honestly, I don't think jimps are supposed to be shiny...
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I use 000 synthetic steel wool with MAAS. Honestly, I don't think jimps are supposed to be shiny...
The shiny parts of a razor got shiny at the factory because someone put it on a polishing wheel. The polishing wheel DID NOT get down into the jimps.Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
When you're talking about old Sheffield blades, typically only the blade face was done to a mirror polish. The spine and tang were left with the finish from the final shaping grind, done on emery wheels.
I have used a quality ( Jewelers' grade) finely cut needle file. I find the cross section which is closest to the original jimp cut. Usually that would be a tri corner, flat oval, or a knife shape. I then set the blade into a narrow slot cut the long way into a 6" long 2x2 which is longer that the blade portion of the razor and supports the shank and spine without allowing the edge and bevel to make contact anywhere. I then carefully align the file perfectly along the existing jimp slots and one slow careful stroke will normally get to the bottom. The jig is also great for sanding the spine and tail because it can secure the razor and held in one hand while working on them with the other hand.
The shanks and tails of a razor are usually not well hardened so a file will cut quickly. Be careful or all is for naught!
Richard
This is my method if I am not using the buffer wheels. You will need some maas or some such after to remove the scuff marks it makes.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
am no metal expert, but SS is maybe at best 40 RC.perhaps well below a razors hardness,with a light touch it works well,scuffing has not been an issue,(with a light touch)