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I know there are experienced horn scale repair guys out there, so I want to hear from you.
Have you found any particular glue to work better before or After applying the neatsfoot oil?
Does CA glue work better on a dry scale? or epoxy types?
Or perhaps you ahve found that the oil helps the bonding process in some way?
Or do you oil the scales, and when needed clean the oil from the area to be repaired?
Thanks for the help! =D
Steve Magpie
I use CA glue on horn.Appy,let dry and then polish with a clean rag with Mothers mag polish.They will polish to a high gloss.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magpie
Normally I would say oil is bad for a glue joint but super glue is far from normal.
Why not mail Loctite or any other maker, they helped me a lot before when I were gluing "strange stuff".
I am wondering about this oil thing. I would think oil after as the glue would soak in deeper but Sometimes my thinking is upside down. Some of the new glues like wet over dry I guess . And I have no idea what ca glue is :<0) .
Brownells Acra-glass repair kit with Black and Brown dye..
I do the repairs after initial sanding, I let the repair fully set, then sand to fine, Neetsfoot Oil bath, Buff to a sheen...
That has been what works for me...
Glenn, I have used epoxy with dust to do even broken-in half ones. It works great, but still shows, but not bad with a finish. How is the Brownells different? Is it 2 part? Do you add the colors, or does it come colored? Always looking for something better! I could google it, but we would get no tips that way! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Thx
Tips ???? I wanna a link to the video :<0)Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
If you oil the horn before using an adhesive, nothing will work.
Brownells is great stuff,used to bed free floated barrels in the recoil lug area.
Is a two part epoxy and nothing more.
I was about to say! It only makes sense. If the horn has been oiled at a place an adhesive repair is required, how would be the best way to remove some? If not all? I have used rubbing alcohol/toothbrush and acetone rinse with good results.
That works,I use simple green full strenth in an ultrasonic.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
This stuff is actually the shizit, it can be adjusted for viscosity on the spot much like having Acra-Glas and Acra-Gel in the same package...
The only difference between this and normal epoxy, is the formulation, these are designed to bond with natural material, and create an shock absorbing surface. Bedding compounds, seem to be easier to cut, shape, and sand, but I have worked with them quite often in the past on rifles so that might just be my impression..
Normal epoxy it designed to stick two surfaces together, not a major difference I guess, but I find this stuff is easier to work for repairs and normal epoxy is better for gluing things together..
Miles Gilbert Bedrock Glass Bedding Kit
Actually, that seems to be a smoking deal. (This coming from a dollar store epoxy guy!) Seems enough to do many razors as well as a reft of tools and dyes. Sure to come in handy. A nice item for the money, I think. Thanks, Glen!
Tom
I like the sound of that stuff, Glen! Any idea if anyone's done any kind of longevity tests on it? If it's a proper resin epoxy, I assume it'll last, but data is always neat to have.
As for whether or not to use CA glue before or after neatsfoot --I wouldn't worry overmuch. CA glue cures via exposure to water. As long as the surfaces are touching (IE not dripping neatsfoot), the glue will cheerfully stalk down every available molecule of water and merge with it, sticking nicely to nearby surfaces in the process.
On razors made of horn 6 years and still going :) On rifles :shrug: Decades, I don't know exactly when Acra-Glas was invented, the new stuff is even better..Quote:
Originally Posted by Voidmonster