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Thread: Horn, Glue, and Oils

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    The First Cut is the Deepest! Magpie's Avatar
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    Default Horn, Glue, and Oils

    I know there are experienced horn scale repair guys out there, so I want to hear from you.

    Have you found any particular glue to work better before or After applying the neatsfoot oil?
    Does CA glue work better on a dry scale? or epoxy types?
    Or perhaps you ahve found that the oil helps the bonding process in some way?
    Or do you oil the scales, and when needed clean the oil from the area to be repaired?

    Thanks for the help! =D

    Steve Magpie

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    Senior Member Blackstangal's Avatar
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    I use CA glue on horn.Appy,let dry and then polish with a clean rag with Mothers mag polish.They will polish to a high gloss.
    Quote Originally Posted by Magpie View Post
    I know there are experienced horn scale repair guys out there, so I want to hear from you.

    Have you found any particular glue to work better before or After applying the neatsfoot oil?
    Does CA glue work better on a dry scale? or epoxy types?
    Or perhaps you ahve found that the oil helps the bonding process in some way?
    Or do you oil the scales, and when needed clean the oil from the area to be repaired?

    Thanks for the help! =D

    Steve Magpie

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    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    Normally I would say oil is bad for a glue joint but super glue is far from normal.
    Why not mail Loctite or any other maker, they helped me a lot before when I were gluing "strange stuff".

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    Senior Member blabbermouth 10Pups's Avatar
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    I am wondering about this oil thing. I would think oil after as the glue would soak in deeper but Sometimes my thinking is upside down. Some of the new glues like wet over dry I guess . And I have no idea what ca glue is :<0) .
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Brownells Acra-glass repair kit with Black and Brown dye..

    I do the repairs after initial sanding, I let the repair fully set, then sand to fine, Neetsfoot Oil bath, Buff to a sheen...

    That has been what works for me...
    Blackstangal likes this.

  6. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:

    10Pups (01-28-2013), Geezer (01-28-2013), skipnord (01-28-2013)

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Brownells Acra-glass repair kit with Black and Brown dye..

    I do the repairs after initial sanding, I let the repair fully set, then sand to fine, Neetsfoot Oil bath, Buff to a sheen...

    That has been what works for me...
    Glenn, I have used epoxy with dust to do even broken-in half ones. It works great, but still shows, but not bad with a finish. How is the Brownells different? Is it 2 part? Do you add the colors, or does it come colored? Always looking for something better! I could google it, but we would get no tips that way!
    Thx
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth 10Pups's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Glenn, I have used epoxy with dust to do even broken-in half ones. It works great, but still shows, but not bad with a finish. How is the Brownells different? Is it 2 part? Do you add the colors, or does it come colored? Always looking for something better! I could google it, but we would get no tips that way!
    Thx
    Tips ???? I wanna a link to the video :<0)
    sharptonn likes this.
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    If you oil the horn before using an adhesive, nothing will work.
    Brownells is great stuff,used to bed free floated barrels in the recoil lug area.
    Is a two part epoxy and nothing more.
    Last edited by pixelfixed; 01-28-2013 at 01:52 AM.
    sharptonn likes this.

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I was about to say! It only makes sense. If the horn has been oiled at a place an adhesive repair is required, how would be the best way to remove some? If not all? I have used rubbing alcohol/toothbrush and acetone rinse with good results.
    Last edited by sharptonn; 01-28-2013 at 01:56 AM.
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  11. #10
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I was about to say! It only makes sense. If the horn has been oiled at a place an adhesive repair is required, how would be the best way to remove some? If not all? I have used rubbing alchohol/toothbrush and acetone rinse with good results.
    That works,I use simple green full strenth in an ultrasonic.

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