Thread: wood for scales

hello guys
I got some nos blades without scales, its swedish blades so I wanted to make the sclales from swedish wood. Have someone experience with this different woodtypes? some of them that isnt very good to make scales of? Thank you for your help
(from the left on the picture: 1 common juniper, 2 Pronus Padus (bird cherry, hackberry) 3 oak, 4 apple, 5 cherry (or maybe it can be wildcherry)

I forgot the pictures, here they are. I got one more question aswell. I new to making scales so I thought that maybe a flat wedge may be better? im worried that im not gonna get the exact same angel and that the blades not gonna be centerd, or isnt it that hard to get a good wedge?

Try here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Which ever is the Harder wood, and if any have natural water resistance, go that direction...

Wedge vs Spacer

Razor scales are desigend to "Flex" the scales should be bowed (adds strength too) and the angle should match the angle in the tang, that was how they were designed originally, you can of course do whatever you like as they are your razors, but when they continually loosen the pins, the razor starts falling through the scales, or it starts closing off center later, then you will learn why those old farts years ago designed things a certain way

I dont got any old scales for these razors but i got an other klas törnblod razor so I will try to copy the wedge from that one then and hope it will work. About the different types of wood I got I was thinking about using different type of wood on each blade. The oak I think is the hardest but I was wondering if anyone got any bad experiance with some of the other wood types? If not I suppose I will just try and hope for the best. thank you gus for your fast answers

Think about the finish you are going to use, you can google the type of wood and probably get some expert opinions on Wet situations and which finish will be best for each wood..

Elder folklore: if one wishes to cut an Elder, one must always ask permission. In the case of the Elder, after asking permission, one must wait until Hylde-Moer grants consent by remaining silent. Or bad luck will follow you home.

A marine Tung oil would work nicely. It's water resistant, pops the grain of the wood, and you can wet sand with it to fill the pores making a nice smooth flat surface. Then you can leave as is, and a few coats of wax, or apply a wipe on poly or gunstock finish, the choices are pretty broad. Make sure to check to see if the finish will dry clear, or add its own flavor. You may apply something, and it can change the color of the lighter woods. I.E. amber shellac will add a yellowish/blonde hue to lighter woods, but natural shellac will dry clear as day. Hope that helps.

Here's a handy resource for comparing the appearance, hardness, density, durability, etc. of various woods:

http://www.wood-database.com/wood-identification/The Wood Database | The Wood Database

Even the less dense, softer woods can be made more durable by stabilizing with various products. I prefer a true hardener such as Minwax Wood Hardener but many have good results using only one of polyacrylics. Always experiment with the stabilizer or finisher on a test piece first since the process usually darkens the color.