Lead spacers are terribly messy and time consuming to make yet they are the classic choice for bone and ivory.
For large blades like WB they are the obvious choice if one wants to properly balance those large blades.
Lead spacers are terribly messy and time consuming to make yet they are the classic choice for bone and ivory.
For large blades like WB they are the obvious choice if one wants to properly balance those large blades.
How are you shaping those?
Nope, I too am of the brotherhood of lead-breathers (actually I do use a respirator and am careful).
What I usually do is melt down old fishing weights into small ingots, then pound them flat with a hammer into rectangular blanks about 3 mm thick. Then I'll just use a hammer on an anvil to get the slope right for the particular razor, drill the hole, use a hacksaw / beater shears for rough shaping, and filing to finalize the shape.Quote:
Originally Posted by eod7
The kind of minimal exposure I'm not too worried about, but honestly I've had great results with scrap aluminum and am thinking of trying bismuth as replacements. Plus they stay shiny. Lead is the thing to use if you want the razor to age like it should, other metals won't accrue the right oxidation on the wedge.
And so am I.Quote:
Originally Posted by ScienceGuy
I harvested mine from a car battery and I use a hammer to pound it to the desired thickness then I nip of the excess with a pair of plyers and sand it, always wearing a respirator of course.
My first home made lead vedge was a bit thick http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ured-horn.html
My second was perfect http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...lack-horn.html
I use battered "Silver plated" super soft pewter baby mugs and such, gotten for nothing at a junk shop. I melt the soft item with a torch and pour it onto a hot (220º+) flat sheet of steel. I can then cut a square and hammer the angle onto it. Stuff doesn't work harden. I file both sides dead flat and continue from there.
I have thought of making a long "V" mold of two steel strips but have not done so.
~Richard
The heated steel sheet assures that I don't get spattered by steam sprayed metal.
Nice job on those lead wedges Baxxer.
The few I have made I cast with Cerro bend,melts on a hot plate at 158 degs.
Your certainty is misfounded - you are far from the only person doing this.
Regards,
Neil
I love using lead for wedges. It hides a multitude of fit sins. Ill nip it close pin the wedge them tap the lead in the crack of the scales to tighten as needed. Looks perfectly like the classic razor should look. Its the cheaters favorite material. Oh and I've never used a mask. Stupiddddddd Me.
Oh!!!! I dont feel so good my head hurts..
Just a tip on sourcing your lead... try anyone near you who does stained glass work. I'll bet they have tons of scrap they'd give you for free (this also applies to those who hand load their own ammo as well and use a mold). My wife's aunt is a glass artist, and has buckets of scrap around. All I'd have to do is ask... (now, if I can just find a cheap press... :) )
Cat onto a flat, metallic sheet. Saw slowly into blanks, thenhammer into wedge, then file, check anglesplace into scales and gluefile away excess then prograssively sand to 600
Actually, for balancing, it is really not that much better than nickelsilver or something else.
It's only a couple of grams, and the difference between lead and a slightly thicker subsitute is negligible.
Sorry Bruno,your wrong:) I needed a one lb wedge to balance this rodgers:))Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e/DSC00985.jpg
Doesn't matter. A spacer sized piece of lead will only be a couple of grams heavier than a spacer sized piece or nickel silver.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Was a joke:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno