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Thread: I am certain that I am the only guy who makes lead spacers from scratch

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    Default I am certain that I am the only guy who makes lead spacers from scratch

    Lead spacers are terribly messy and time consuming to make yet they are the classic choice for bone and ivory.

    For large blades like WB they are the obvious choice if one wants to properly balance those large blades.

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    Senior Member eod7's Avatar
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    How are you shaping those?
    One time, in band camp, I shaved with a Gold Dollar razor.

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    Senior Member ScienceGuy's Avatar
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    Nope, I too am of the brotherhood of lead-breathers (actually I do use a respirator and am careful).

    Quote Originally Posted by eod7 View Post
    How are you shaping those?
    What I usually do is melt down old fishing weights into small ingots, then pound them flat with a hammer into rectangular blanks about 3 mm thick. Then I'll just use a hammer on an anvil to get the slope right for the particular razor, drill the hole, use a hacksaw / beater shears for rough shaping, and filing to finalize the shape.

    The kind of minimal exposure I'm not too worried about, but honestly I've had great results with scrap aluminum and am thinking of trying bismuth as replacements. Plus they stay shiny. Lead is the thing to use if you want the razor to age like it should, other metals won't accrue the right oxidation on the wedge.

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    Senior Member Baxxer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScienceGuy View Post
    Nope, I too am of the brotherhood of lead-breathers (actually I do use a respirator and am careful).
    And so am I.

    I harvested mine from a car battery and I use a hammer to pound it to the desired thickness then I nip of the excess with a pair of plyers and sand it, always wearing a respirator of course.

    My first home made lead vedge was a bit thick http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ured-horn.html
    My second was perfect http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...lack-horn.html
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    I use battered "Silver plated" super soft pewter baby mugs and such, gotten for nothing at a junk shop. I melt the soft item with a torch and pour it onto a hot (220º+) flat sheet of steel. I can then cut a square and hammer the angle onto it. Stuff doesn't work harden. I file both sides dead flat and continue from there.
    I have thought of making a long "V" mold of two steel strips but have not done so.
    ~Richard
    The heated steel sheet assures that I don't get spattered by steam sprayed metal.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Hirlau's Avatar
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    Nice job on those lead wedges Baxxer.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    The few I have made I cast with Cerro bend,melts on a hot plate at 158 degs.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Your certainty is misfounded - you are far from the only person doing this.

    Regards,
    Neil
    onimaru55 and ScienceGuy like this.

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    Hirlau (05-20-2013)

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    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
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    I love using lead for wedges. It hides a multitude of fit sins. Ill nip it close pin the wedge them tap the lead in the crack of the scales to tighten as needed. Looks perfectly like the classic razor should look. Its the cheaters favorite material. Oh and I've never used a mask. Stupiddddddd Me.
    Oh!!!! I dont feel so good my head hurts..
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    Senior Member crouton976's Avatar
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    Just a tip on sourcing your lead... try anyone near you who does stained glass work. I'll bet they have tons of scrap they'd give you for free (this also applies to those who hand load their own ammo as well and use a mold). My wife's aunt is a glass artist, and has buckets of scrap around. All I'd have to do is ask... (now, if I can just find a cheap press... )
    "Willpower and Dedication are good words," Roland remarked, "There's a bad one, though, that means the same thing. That one is Obsession." -Roland Deschain of Gilead

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