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05-22-2013, 01:46 PM #1
At what point will this Wade and Butcher need a regrind?
I recently won this W&B from an ebay auction and I was hoping I could get some opinions on if/when it might need a regrind. I've gone over it with some mothers and got off the superficial rust. The etching is intact enough. Originally, I thought I would go ahead and make the blade a mirror finish. The honewear is more significant at the toe of the blade and I was curious how many honeings it could go through before needing to be reground. No point in dumping time into a mirror finish if it will have to hit the grinding wheels soon.
CheersJimmyHAD:My wife told me if I bought another razor she would leave me ........ and I miss her sometimes......
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05-22-2013, 01:53 PM #2
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Thanked: 2591I do not think so
You would want a regirnd to correct for extreme pitting, or extreme hone wear. You do not have either of those on your blade.
As a matter of fact your razor has a very nice grind with pretty even hone wear.Stefan
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Jonah (05-22-2013)
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05-22-2013, 02:03 PM #3
If you use it to shave daily for the next 50 - 60 years, it might need a regrind if you hone it a lot.
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Jonah (05-22-2013)
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05-22-2013, 02:36 PM #4
Guess I'll go ahead and get it to a mirror finish then. Thanks for the input, gents.
CheersJimmyHAD:My wife told me if I bought another razor she would leave me ........ and I miss her sometimes......
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05-22-2013, 02:36 PM #5
Most people that want a regrind is because they like to get rid of patina/pitting/Devil's spit and or spine/edge wear. Sometimes an uneven hone wear too as it can become a pain to hone the razor. You can go both directions. You can easily continue shaving with this razor as is but if aesthetics are important to you then yes, you can have it regrind anytime and get rid of all the mentioned blemishes.
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Jonah (05-22-2013)
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05-22-2013, 02:57 PM #6
I was curious about the regrind mainly because the toe of the wedge. There is about 3/16 of steel from the tip to the barbers notch and I wasn't sure how that would play in for honing and keeping an edge. I haven't honed anything yet (still need to get my stones) and from what I have heard, wedges are a bit more difficult to hone. I probably won't be able to get out all of the pitting, but that's really quite alright with me. While we are all here, can anyone give me a time frame on the razor?
JimmyHAD:My wife told me if I bought another razor she would leave me ........ and I miss her sometimes......
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05-22-2013, 03:23 PM #7
I can't see the stamp on that tang, but if there is no "Made In England" than it is before 1889. IIRC that is when the mfgs had to have country of origin stamped on them. Beyond that, maybe 1850s or beyond. I'm not sure when they quit making wedges like that. I'd say it is an oldie though. I happen to like shaving with razors like that very much.
If you aren't proficient at honing I would say send it out to a pro honer or put it away until you're successful with a few others before you start on that one. Use a layer of tape on the spine also.
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Jonah (05-22-2013)
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05-22-2013, 04:02 PM #8
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Jonah (05-22-2013)
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05-22-2013, 04:10 PM #9
I saved the scales and was very careful in removing them. If I understand correctly, I need to get some neatsfoot oil and soak the scales in them. They have certainly gotten a bit brittle. I was also able to salvage two of the bulls eye washers as well. I am still toying with the idea of polishing them up a little bit and using them for the pivot while using normal brass washers for pins near the toe.
Sorry about that bud! I appreciate the good sportsmanship and I'll make sure I take great care of the bladeJimmyHAD:My wife told me if I bought another razor she would leave me ........ and I miss her sometimes......
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05-22-2013, 04:13 PM #10