Printable View
Not meant as a beat up Livi comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
I have used a 1k Naniwa to set a bevel on a few beat up old razors of different makes from different countries and never noticed a problem like that. When I say beat up I mean chipped edges and/or corrosion on the bevel. I am most certainly a novice at honing. Only have one razor from spanking new and that has never needed to be put on a 1K hone though.
Bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
That would bring to the surface the other problem that new honers have :(
Inconsistent strokes, the higher the grit the more laps must be done the more laps done the more chance of them screwing up one of those strokes and eliminating all the work they have done
Basically, regardless of the way they climb the ladder they have to set their feet on each rung, trying to shortcut or skip steps creates problems..
Or even more simply put "The more ya hone,, the better you hone" :)
Great idea Marty. Going up a k or 2 can help in certain situations. New to honing or not some blades need a different approach. Like if the bevel didn't need to be reset in the first place. And if done improperly on a 1k would only add to the problem. Same in the case of bad steel from polishing heat, bad temper or what ever.
Then there is the pressure thing. How do you describe pressure ? The best I can come up with is,,,stack 4 or 5 quarters and then place your hone on them dead center. Run your blade across the hone without tipping it and you have some light pressure. Really light use dimes :<0)
A friend told me he was advised to hold the hone with one finger under the middle and run your razor across that without knocking the hone off it. A little scary for me to pass along. I picture the broken hone thread being revived like never before.
When I first started honing I would take a razor in unknown condition and start it on the 4k. I only had 3 stones then so if it didn't improve on the 4k I knew which way to go. If it cut water all the way across and felt good I would move up to my finisher the 8k. Another good reason to stick with the basics and then move into the world of multiple choices and different finishes after you master those.
An experienced honer can thumb pad an edge and give it a look see with the Lupe and tell which hone to start out on. Running into bad steel may change that decision but it's a starting point chosen with experience. He also knows what light pressure really is.
Mike has taught me the ways of the Carborundum and Frictionite but I still start a bevel on a 1k until I run into problems. With a large pile of work on my bench I may change that routine once I get to honing them all up. ( pre bevel set ) ? Sounds like another step to add to the routine. Some things just have to be learned/relearned the hard way.
I would say the pressure problem for noobs would be across the board with all hones not just 1 k.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
It's a matter of horses for courses with stone choice. A 3k stone can't do what is required of a 320 grit stone & vice versa, however, with a setup like Livi's, a 320 grit would be redundant as it seem 1k is also for him.
The 3k Livi used to reset the bevel on that razor was ample for that job. The blade was new & needed minimal grinding for restoration.
Even if a blade need not be taken down to 1K for a bevel set what harm should it do besides removing more steel than is really necessary? I still don't see why and edge should crumble but whatever.Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
Bob
I agree that it shouldn't, but if the steel is too brittle and it does crumble, then you've got to roll with it and hone with a higher grit.
I agree. As I said, the problem is in excess pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH
If the steel is too brittle it is likey to chip out even at 8k so a fine stone is no guarantee of fixing, say, an untempered blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
I saw that video where Livi repaired that blade and said that a 3k bevel set was preferable. Just happens that when I bought my Choseras I included a 3k in the equation. Was doing 1,3,5,10, on razors where I was starting from scratch, but after seeing the video I did a couple of bevel sets beginning at 3k. Worked fine. OTOH, years ago it was common, and maybe still is, for those who had the 4/8, but no 1k, to set bevels on a 4k Norton.Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
Thing is it takes longer than on a 1k. Maybe a lot longer, maybe not that much, depending on the blade, the hand on the hone. I'm going to keep on beginning at the 3k just because I have it, and I like to experiment. The 1k Chosera is efficient and it is the best bevel setter I've used compared to Norton, Naniwa ss, Shapton Pro 1ks. All are good but the Chosera was better in terms of speed and smoothness (referring to comparable 1ks).
As anyone who has honed a few razors knows, there are times when a 600 is in order, other times when a 1k is preferable as a starting point. All depends on the condition of the edge from the git-go. The neat thing, for me, about the Livi video, was that it just hadn't occurred to me to start at 3k for edges that were 'good' enough. I was so set on 'start at 1k' that it was virtually my default mode once I had one to use.
The moral of the story being old dogs can learn new tricks. :)
I think what Livi may have meant was what Glen said, and that particular razor did not need a 1k bevel set, the bevels were already flat, just not meeting. There is a big difference in setting a bevel on a buffed razor and one that need a touch up. He just polished the bevels and brought them together.
I have noticed several honing threads were guys are having trouble with custom razors and razors known to be hard, chipping. This I suspect is a result of a 1K and pressure. Steel does have a memory and even if you polish out the stria, the steel is still weakened and will chip, maybe later. Hard steels respond well to higher grits and low pressure, even if it takes a bit longer. And really how long does it take to do 100 laps?
For me it is much like sanding where I learned a long time ago to let the sandpaper do the work, if it is not getting results then, you need a lower grit, like what Jerry was talking about.
When hand sanding I start with 600 then go from there, 600 stria is easy to polish with 1k paper.
If I get a hard razor that chips I lightly breadknife with a 1200 diamond file and take it to my Norton 4k and seal the deal.
I think it would be harder for new guys to get into trouble with a higher grit stone. A 1K is like putting a kid in a hot rod, you know what’s going to happen.
When my son learned to drive we bought him a new Hyundai, he still crashed it 3 times, none of which involved a hospital.
FWIW, I set a bevel on a mint Iwasaki western last night using a Yaginoshima asagi. For the no-nat guys thats like bevel setting on a 12k.
As we've said, horses for courses.