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  1. #1
    Senior Member Jacques13's Avatar
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    Default How to go about honing my first W&B

    I got this very old (any info would be welcome) Wade&Butcher a few weeks ago. It was a mess when I got it but it did clean up quite nicely. Had to trash the scales, made some new one in bloodwood.
    I would like your advice on honing it. I have hone other str8 with great success but this one seem stuburn, it's very sharp but not popping hair sharp??
    It's my first heavy wedge and would like to do a good job on it. Help please!!!
    I have a Norton 4k/8k, a King 6k, a japanese 4k and a chromium oxide pasted leather strop plus a good leather strop.
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  2. #2
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    That razor is a challenge to hone. It is tapered in width and also has a "smile" shape to the edge. There is also extensive hone wear and it is a shallow grind. I would use 2 layers of tape to make up for the extensive hone wear. A heel leading rolling X pattern stroke and a narrow hone if possible.

    I would stay on the 4K until the bevel is established. Use the Thumb Nail Test frequently and also the TPT to gauge your progress. Then move on to the 8k Norton.


    Just my two cents,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  3. #3
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    Tape will speed up the process greatly.

    The thing about these old wedges is that the bevels are so wide and they have so much hone wear that it takes many more strokes to achieve the same amount of effective honing as a hollow ground blade (more metal touching the stone means more abrasion necessary to do the same job). Don't be surprised if it takes twice or three times as many passes if you dont use tape.

    And as randy mentioned, the rolling x pattern is the only way to make every last mm of the blade touch a stone, even if it is a thin stone (like 1 inch wide or so). If you are not sure what that motion is, there are many threads where it is discussed but it boils down to just being the motion that forces the blade to touch the stone at every point along the length of the cutting edge with some part of the spine still on the hone. Any motion that fulfills those requirements should get you headed in the right direction.

  4. #4
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    btw, that type of blade would probably date to around 1850-1880.

    Anyone care to verify, disagree?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Jacques13's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for your help.
    ģI'll doubl;e tape the spine and make sure the edge is in full contact with the stone.

    I can't wait to shave with this heavy blade, Never used a heavy bladed str8.

    Jacques

  6. #6
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    Jacques, what's the latest? I have what appears to be a twin brother of this one winging its way to me and I'm interested in how yours turns out...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Jacques13's Avatar
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    Didn't get to it yet...had to work on the outdoor and going on fishing trip for the next few days.

    Will keep you posted on the result.

    Thanks

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