Results 1 to 10 of 21

Thread: The Rolling X

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,292
    Thanked: 150

    Default

    It's only something I've done a few times, and it could just be that the slurry stone added a little more "break in" wear to the diamond surface. I'll have to do some more playing around before I can say that it does anything positive with any certainty.

  2. #2
    Member gingahippy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Croatia and UK
    Posts
    94
    Thanked: 16

    Default

    I see a lot of hones in the background there, I'm praying that things don't go that far for me.

    Very useful pics though, i have a W&B exactly like the one you showed, dark and old and looks like a butcher's chopper but seems ot be good steel. i only bought it a week ago in a flea market and have yet to try anything with it.

    I thought that i would need to grind out the hollow a littel since mine doesn't have much ofone left from a lot of use, but can Ijust give it a good equal bevel and use it with a thicker blade/less hollow?

    Would this act more like a wedge too and keep the blade sharper for longer?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,292
    Thanked: 150

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gingahippy View Post
    I see a lot of hones in the background there, I'm praying that things don't go that far for me.

    I thought that i would need to grind out the hollow a littel since mine doesn't have much ofone left from a lot of use, but can Ijust give it a good equal bevel and use it with a thicker blade/less hollow?

    Would this act more like a wedge too and keep the blade sharper for longer?
    HAD isn't a real disorder until you have more stones than razors... I passed that point long ago...

    About your WB, it shouldn't need to be reground, as long as you can form a smooth bevel at the edge, it's usable.

    Without seeing the condition of the blade, I can't be too specific but most of these old English blades are best started on something like a 1k hone or sandpaper to set a good bevel because there's so much metal to be removed (anything higher will just take longer to do the same job).

    You'll have to spend more time at each grit level for the same reason, more metal in contact with the hone, but the end result is worth it.

    I can't really say that a wedge holds it's edge noticeably longer, but I can say that they are my favorite blades for comfort when they're honed properly, so you've got that to look forward to.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •