Thread: Shapton selection....

Due to recent issues I have encountered with setting a bevel using a DMT coarse (which I of course attribute to the DMT rather than my own technique ) I am looking at shifting to Shapton stones.

My original question was about the 1k and general comments on it's usefullness and results with various blades. I am still wondering about this, but I have pretty much decided to get one so the info request is more of a what should I expect with it.

My "decision making" question relates to the 220 vs. 500 grits. Both are available but are different prices (the 220 being slightly cheaper). The intended use for the stone would obviously be for setting initial bevels and will be purchased as my primary workhorse, then progressing to the Shapton 1k, 4k and 8k. Since I have never used any of the Shaptons, I have no clue as to how fast they cut or their general characteristics.

Last, I can't justify (no matter how hard I try) the GDLP for now due to price. With that said, I am still thinking about it, but my intent is to use a D8C for lapping for now and even considered picking up the D8XX to use for lapping duty instead.

Thanks in advance for the info! The wife is going to kill me......


v/r

Allen

IMO the DMT 325 is fine for lapping or removing chips. A 225 is mighty coarse. I would go with the 1000 to set bevels. The GDLP is great. It cuts through stones way faster then my DMTC and according to Harrelson Stanley is as flat a lapping plate as you can get.

IF you're planning on buying a GDLP anytime in the future, than you can scrap the idea of any Shapton ceramic stone coarser than the 500 grit. The GDLP instructions specifically caution on using the GDLP for lapping any stone coarser than 500 grit.

I own the GDLP and among higher grits, I also own the 500 and 1000 grit Shapton ceramic on glass stones. I have not had a significant amount of free time to hit the restoration and honing activities hard lately, but when I have, I have rarely used the 500 grit (I'm OK with that since I'll use it for wood chisels and plane irons). I find that the 1000 works well and works quickly for me. Actually, for factory edges of excellent condition vintage razors (I have a few), I purchased the Shapton 2000 grit ceramic on glass and just don't want to set bevels on even the 1000 for those kind of razors.

Rather than buy the 500, I would recommend you start at the 1000 and set bevels with that. If you find that it's not as fast as you'd like for the type of razors you're needed to set bevels on, you can always buy the 500 at a later date. Just my 2 cents. For me, the Shapton 1000 is such a pleasure to use as it's smoother and gentler to the edge than a D8E which I've also owned and used.

Chris L

I think anyone would have a bad time setting bevels on the DMT D8C. That thing is way too course in my opinion for setting bevels. General consensus is to start around 1k and only go courser for significant edge repair. Any reason as to why you are setting bevels with 325 and even considering 200-something? I'm not saying it is wrong since obviously different things work, but what is your reasoning/experience?

i purchased a shapton glass 2000 for bevel setting, it should work ok i havent recieved it ye,t but if i have to ill buy the 1000
as for setting a bevel with a dmy 320 way too course for that purpose i would think, it is great for flattening stones

Originally Posted by Philadelph

I think anyone would have a bad time setting bevels on the DMT D8C. That thing is way too course in my opinion for setting bevels. General consensus is to start around 1k and only go courser for significant edge repair. Any reason as to why you are setting bevels with 325 and even considering 200-something? I'm not saying it is wrong since obviously different things work, but what is your reasoning/experience?

The main reason I was even looking at the 220 or 500 was because they are included with a package that is discounted. I was trying to see what use either would be. I can't see using the 220 for much but it is cheaper in the package. I may be able to use it with my knives when they get really bad (but I'd be leary of using them even with my kitchen knives). The only time I use the coarse DMT is when I need to take off lots of steel due to a large chip or a really bad bevel. I can honestly say I've only really needed anything that coarse with 2 blades that were basket cases. They are just too agressive and chip the hell out of most blades. I just wondered if perhaps the 500 was agressive but smoother (i.e. less likely to chip) compared to the DMT making it useful for initial bevel setting.

I will contact the re-seller and see if there is any way he could substitute the coarse one for the 16K. It may cost more, but maybe he can offer a similar package discount. If not, then I am trying to get the best bang-for-the-buck with the package as-is.

v/r

Allen