Thread: Scratches on wedges from honing?

Originally Posted by SteveS

That is exactly what I figured causes it.

+1 on the edge theory

-1 on that theory.

I used diamond lapping film on my wedge. Completely uniform surface, and still the scratches....

Is it just that the bevels are wide enough on a wedge that you can see the scratches, as opposed to the very thin bevels of a regular razor?

Originally Posted by Seraphim

-1 on that theory.

I used diamond lapping film on my wedge. Completely uniform surface, and still the scratches....

Is it just that the bevels are wide enough on a wedge that you can see the scratches, as opposed to the very thin bevels of a regular razor?

Hard to say from the picture- but to me they appear to be left overs from an early grit

Originally Posted by Seraphim

-1 on that theory.

I used diamond lapping film on my wedge. Completely uniform surface, and still the scratches....

Is it just that the bevels are wide enough on a wedge that you can see the scratches, as opposed to the very thin bevels of a regular razor?

You see, I think those scratches that you have in your pic aren't what I am talking about. Mine aren't on the bevel but past the bevel on the blade. I agree with Kev as to what your scratches may be though. I agree with the slurry and edge ideas though for what I am talking about. For your razor Seraphim, the bevel no matter how wide should be uniform scratches, so that must either be errant grit from a coarser stone or scratches that were never honed away. In any case, if it shaves well, it doesn't really matter, does it? lol

Originally Posted by Philadelph

You see, I think those scratches that you have in your pic aren't what I am talking about. Mine aren't on the bevel but past the bevel on the blade. I agree with Kev as to what your scratches may be though. I agree with the slurry and edge ideas though for what I am talking about. For your razor Seraphim, the bevel no matter how wide should be uniform scratches, so that must either be errant grit from a coarser stone or scratches that were never honed away. In any case, if it shaves well, it doesn't really matter, does it? lol

OK then. I agree with you in regards to my razor.

As far as scratches beyond the bevel: I didn't realize that is what you were talking about in the first place, so I will recuse myself from any further comments on that subject, because I know nothing about it.

Has anyone devised a way to reduce or eliminate these inner-bevel scratches?

If you are referring to the streak into the belly that scratch the mirror finish (or the etch), I find it happens on lower grits (an arrant clump of grits). A bit of tape over the belly just behind the bevel (covering the etch) on both sides before setting the bevel prevents this.

This is exactly the think I have been thinking about lately I have 2 theories.

1. The scratches are left over from coarser girts that may have cut a little deeper then desired, and are only revealed when you get past about 2k, when mirror finishing begins. The scratches become more pronounced the finer you get. The best way to get rid of them is to go back down to 2k or so (assuming the bevel is set, I wouldn't go back to 1k, its too coarse for this, and will leave new scratches in its place). On your way back up, you must make sure that all previous scratches are even at each level. It's time consuming.

As part of the same theory, except for diamond plates, the coarser grit stones round over the edge more than finer grits because they wear faster. If you set the bevel with a #320 stone, you can expect to have a somewhat rounded edge, especially on repaired edges. At 1k, the stone is stronger, but time needs to be spent making sure that you "flatten" out the bevel to get those scratches (but this too can round the edge if you are using a softer stone. Lapping is the key, here. How much is the $64 Million question, and it depends on you, but more is better in this case IME.)

2. The scratches are really caused from the technique - let me explain before I get death threats - I see an X pattern of scratches on the blade, which means you are either alternating the position on the blade somewhere in your process, or it is from an "X" or a half-moon pattern. They haven't been "canceled out" by higher grit stones.

If you use this method I used on my blog (again, please no death threats, just a suggestion to even out the scratches) it creates scratches in a uniform horizontal direction, and is "borrowed" from Japanese Katana polishing, BTW. Sharpening with the blade straight across the stone can also be used, and it creates uniform verticle scratches.

If you use Shaptons, you will see scratches all the way up to 30k if you look in the right light. I think pyramid sharpening will also have more pronounced scratches than progressive sharpening, because you are switching back and forth between 2 grits, whereas progressive sharpening goes through each stone without going back, so you'll see less evidence of the provious stones (in theory, at least).

Aesthetics are one thing, but as long as the razor feel good, I think the only ones who will have a problem with it are us back seat sharpeners!

I started finding those scretches when I received my DMT x-fine (grit 1200) and used it to "pre-set" bevels before going to coticule+slurry. I think that scretches are left by "steel slurry", fragments of steel mixed with water on the diamond plate. I use plenty of water (lot of water every 10 laps) but: (a) in part I still can see some steel floating on the plate while honing; (b) if I clean the plate under running water and then I touch the surface with my fingers, I find a lot of black compound still on the surface..

Originally Posted by randydance062449

The other is slurry and also pressure. .

Just my observations,

+lower grit stones while you are setting bevel.
will have all blades wedges ,hallows etc.usually 1k.