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Thread: Slurry Question

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sicboater Slurry Question 08-13-2008, 02:56 PM
JimmyHAD Slurry is not desirable for... 08-13-2008, 03:12 PM
Russel Baldridge +1 The slurry will make... 08-13-2008, 04:14 PM
Bart Sand paper will work, but... 08-13-2008, 04:54 PM
sicboater Thanks to all! 08-13-2008, 05:21 PM
  1. #1
    French Toast Please! sicboater's Avatar
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    Question Slurry Question

    I have a natural combo coticule in the mail to me right now and was wondering:

    If I don't have a slurry stone, are there any other ways to raise an effective slurry on the coticule? Wet dry sandpaper of a high quality? Anything?

    I would love to buy one of gugi's combo slurry stones but don't have the paypal funds right now so what are my other options?

    Is honing without a slurry okay? ( I am counting on this stone as my finisher).

    Thanks in advance Guys!


    -Rob

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Slurry is not desirable for finishing. The coticule cuts faster with slurry. If you want to create a slurry a small pocket size dmt fine is good. If you are in the USA Howard at the Perfect Edge sells cotigura slurry stones for around $18.00 USD.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    +1

    The slurry will make the Coticule work like a 6k stone (removes steel as fast, but not at 6k coarseness), which is a great starting place for most razor touchups but isn't absolutely necessary.

    If you just use plain water on the surface it's more like an 8k to 10k stone, and that is the preferred method of finishing with a coticule. (some coticules can be used dry with great results, others cannot for some reason)

    I recommend getting a DMT 8C at some point to everyone who hones with natural stones, but it is not a necessity. It does make quick work of lapping and raising a slurry though.

    I bought one of these just to try out: Coticule Slurry Stone - eBay (item 310017809218 end time Aug-22-08 18:13:31 PDT)
    and have been happy with it so far.

    This is a cheap but effective little diamond hone: The Ultra Sharp 6” Diamond Sharpening Stone (1200 Grit) - eBay (item 310061946944 end time Aug-23-08 17:46:57 PDT)
    but it may be too small to be an effective lapping plate.

    Howard, of course, has the best Belgian stones and is much repected around here.
    Last edited by Russel Baldridge; 08-13-2008 at 05:40 PM.

  4. #4
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    Sand paper will work, but you'll have to inspect the slurry for an occasional particle coming from the sandpaper (use black sandpaper instead of yellow). It's not a big deal, if you use a good grade of sandpaper and a light touch.

    The scratch pattern that a coticule leaves is the same regardless if you use it with slurry or water. Slurry is a multitude times faster, BUT it does not allow the edge to become sharper than a certain level. Even if you remove a lot of material, the edge will max out at that same level. If you gradually thin the slurry to almost plain water during the honing process, you can push that barrier a bit and get a keener edge. The final result really depends on the coticule.

    Today, almost everyone uses the cotcule as a finisher, with water only. It does not show the above explained slurry-effect in that mode. Of course, you need the achieve proper sharpness with another hone, such as a Norton 4K or a DMT 8K before polishing that edge on your coticule. If you choose that route, you'll never need to raise a slurry.

    Best regards,
    Bart.

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    French Toast Please! sicboater's Avatar
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    Default Thanks to all!

    Lots of good info here as always!

    I am going to use a norton 1k/4k to set and then sharpen the bevel respectively. I then plan on using the yellow side of the coticule to finish. I also have a CrOx pasted paddle, generally speaking would that be a good next step? (I know all blades are different which is why I say "generally") I have heard that CrOx isn't the way to go after a coticule but was looking for opinions.

    thanks again guys!

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    CrO will polish any edge, it should work the same as it does with a blade sharpened on any other stone. But I don't use it very much, so I can't give a definitive answer.

    Try shaving after the coticule (stropping of course in between) and if it's not up to your standards, hit the CrO.

    Lots of options as usual, sometimes messing around for a while to find what you like is the best route.

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