Thread: Edge Deterioration

Well, I'm not sure I can accuratly answer your question since the edge on my blades goes back to my noobie days around 8 months ago and probably gets better with the newer blades I added. Using mostly a different blade each day I may have used each about three times w/ too many different blades in between to remember the experiance with that blade the last time.

What I can say is that the different types of carbon steel will break down at different rates and the finer the edge, the faster it breaks down. Storage also plays a role in the rate of deterioration. Storing a blade in a container tht will not allow for air flow and/or absorbe mositure will have a faster oxidation than open air flow or absorbant material. That said, I purchased 5 straights 15 or 20 years ago at a local auction. The blades were in really fins shape with no rust or tarnish. I tried to figure out the straight razor stick nut with no internet or SRP to help me I didn't get too far. I put the blades in a paper covered wood cigar box and stashed it in a draw. Aout 8 months ago I dug them out when my son started shaving. They looked like they did when I put them away 20 years ago. One was a Pipe, one a WP&R Wheel, one a Wade and Butcher, one a Robeson and the last I don't recall the make of right now. I would asume they are different steel composition so the storage preserved them. Here's a pic of the Robeson (made ny Boler). I didn't do any Mass or other polishing to it befor the pic. Why did these stay so well preserved w/o any oil or fancy protection? Was it the cigar box? This may be a good experiment for someone that has the time and patients. Has anyone tried parking their straights under a pyramid yet? I am curently storing my blades in test tube stand that holds 50 blades, tooth brush stands and some in razor rolls in a safe with lots of large silicone gel packs. No issues of rust. Previously I had some in the china cabinet for a while just to keep them out of the way and I notices corosion on the edges after a few weels. I have two tool boxes of presision Tool Maker tools w/ the silicone packs and the tools are as good as they were 17 years ago when I packed them up while other hand tools in the same room but not the tool boxes rusted. I am sure this will relate to the edge of our blades and am interested in hearing about other success stories where the process did not involve oils even though oils do provide a solution as do others like Tough Glide.

Up until the MN get-together, I had been dipping my razors in a 0.5% solution of olive oil in isopropyl alcohol to protect my blades. Terry Knipschield, the knife maker, told me at the get-together that it was his understanding that olive oil is slightly caustic to steel.
I hadn't considered that, but as Bruce pointed out, olive oil is a vegetable oil, and is actually a fat. Camellia oil is as well. When either breaks down, the resulting fatty acids could interact with the steel and cause its degradation.
For that reason, I have switched to using a solution of mineral oil and isopropyl alcohol. The mineral oil should be inert and so blades should last longer with it.

I would suggest that Camellia oil should not be used for long term protection of blades.

I haven't noticed any edge problems with more than six razors that sort of fell out of my usual rotation. They were sharpened and stored for at least 8 months. All were coated with mineral oil and placed in a plastic pencil box containing a desiccant. About half were also in their own boxes.