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Thread: Why lapping film rules
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02-20-2009, 04:59 PM #11
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Thanked: 735Progression:
5um
3um
1um
0.3um
0.3um on paper
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02-20-2009, 05:04 PM #12
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02-20-2009, 05:22 PM #13
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Thanked: 735
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02-20-2009, 05:30 PM #14
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Thanked: 735I agree these are not the best edges I've ever seen either.
I was doing a quick progression at lunchtime when I could sneak my razor in on the scope here at work.
I agree also that you can get similarly good results off of natural stones. I have razor finished by Russel Baldridge, he used a Nakayama, and the edge on it is fantastic (though I never looked at it under the scope...).
But I do hear alot of folks say that they have "a hard time" honing stainless, new steel TIs, Wacker razors, etc. In that case, I would recommend the lapping films, as they will cut through absolutely any kind of steel with no fuss whatsoever.
Here is a pic of a different razor that I actually spent some time working on after coming off the 1um. The finish is much nicer than the 1um "quicky" that I show in my original progression pics above. Same 200x magnification. No paper backing here.
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02-20-2009, 05:41 PM #15
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02-20-2009, 06:00 PM #16
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Thanked: 3Great post!
I'm an all-films guy, and it's been working out great for me. Easy, cheap. I buy sheets from Tools For Working Wood (they have sample packs), cut each sheet into 3 strips and mount on glass with rubber feet for stability and grip.
If I need to set/adjust a bevel, I use the 15 micron film with water or oil. It takes a while but I like the results. Then I basically follow a similar progression as Seraphim, with water or oil, just to get the crud out of the way. Sometimes I'll take a dry pass after I've finished with the wet pass.
No stones for me, dude.
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02-21-2009, 12:49 AM #17
Hey Seraphim,
Thanks for the post. Your micrographs are always tops.
Your point about the difference in the effect of a cushion is interesting. I assumed you were focusing on the consistency of the extreme edge and not on the degree of polish of the bevel.
By the way, I can't remember how you use the film. Do you strop or do you hone?
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02-21-2009, 01:29 AM #18
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Thanked: 735Use it as a hone.
I think that the actual edge is also smoother, not just a more polished bevel.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Seraphim For This Useful Post:
Busrider03 (04-01-2012)
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03-01-2009, 06:52 AM #19
Okay, this just made my night! This is the very next thing I'm buying, shaving-wise! A "hone" down to 0.3M... I think Borat would say "happy time!"
Questions for Seraphim: how much (if any) feedback do you get with this stuff? Is it like a DMT (very little) or is there an increase in suction or some other cue to let you know when you're getting close? Do you recommend using a little soap in the water for greater slip or is it unneccessary? How easy is it to overhone on this stuff? Do you need to be checking the scope every few passes or does it level out at a particular stage for each grit (like a DMT)? And finally, has anyone used the glass plate they sell on the site?
This looks to be perfect for whipping my ultra-recalcitrant TI into shape (never could make that thing behave...)
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03-01-2009, 05:55 PM #20
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Thanked: 735You do get some suction feedback from the films. As far as feel goes--the DMTs feel a bit "scratchy" and metallic (big surprise, right?), the films feel smooth and buttery. Especially with a sheet of paper underneath...
I don't think the 0.3um is really needed,as the edge off of the 1um (with paper backing) gives a quite close and comfortable shave. But, we all must push the limits anyhow....so you'll probably go and get it too!
No soap needed. Actually you don't even need any water on them if you don't want. They work fine dry, especially for finishing work. I generally use them wet, so I can monitor the "bow wave" coming off the edge to see where the blade is meeting the hone.
Give them a go, they are terrifically effective! That TI will round into shape toot sweet!