Thread: expanding the setup: what to get next??

Hi Chaps

Well I think I'm in the HAD realm since I've currently got these hones:

4/8k Norton
1/6k barbers combination
a dark grey Thuringian
a yellow Green Escher
a 'green' or olive Vintage natural combo coticule
2 x 'regular' Vintage natural combo coticles
- about to order a DMT plate for lapping..

So I think I've got more than what I NEED. But to be truly taken by the disorder what should I WANT next?
i.e Where to from here? assuming price isn't a factor just for a second..

Thanks,
- Mike

I don't see one Shapton Glass in that collection. You have the middle grit area pretty well covered. A 16K and 30K would be a fine addition for the final polishing. I'm not sure if you have a paddle with CrO but that would also be nice to include.

bj

I can tell you what I would get, if I already had what you have and felt like I needed to keep going. Maybe some low end shaptons, a naniwa chosera 10k, and a high end japanese?

If you are in fact "about to order a DMT for lapping," are you getting the DMTXX? Per recent discussions and SRP and declarations direct from DMT, the 120 grit plate is the only one recommended for lapping.

Yeah, was thinking I need the D8C (325 grit) for lapping, but was going to get the D8E as well for smoothing the stones further. Isn't 120 grit gonna be too coarse for finishing stones? But thanks for jumping in with that, if thats the right tool for the job, then I'd like to know.

Have been looking at the 16k Shapton, sounds like a nice addition to what I've got. I read something somewhere about hairline cracks in the GlassStones?? whats that about... also, seems like some say the DMT plate is fine for lapping the shapton, but then I read from craftsmanstudio that DMT plates are NOT recommended for ceramic stones...? I don't want to get a DMT and screw it up on a new shapton.. so whats the general feeling on this?

You should be fine by using a DMT C 325 or coarser grit for lapping. I've used a D8C for over 80 hours on the white Spyderco ceramic hones. It still works ok. Keep the slurry build-up to a minimum. Be careful to use lots of water.

Recently a member had slurry cut the nickel on an EE 8000. I have heard of the same thing happening with an E 1200. The finer the mesh, the more susceptible the nickel is to slurry cutting it. I don't use a DMT higher than F 600 for lapping slurry-type hones. It might be prudent to use wet/dry paper for lapping at 600 grit and up.

DMT's product list pdf (not sure how current it is).

EDIT: Here's a link with info that JimmyHAD received from DMT customer service.

Originally Posted by Jasper Kade

Isn't 120 grit gonna be too coarse for finishing stones?

The advantage of the 120 grit is that it cuts much faster. If it leaves scratches on some of your hones, you can easily smooth them by placing a sheet of finer wet/dry sandpaper on top of the plate (it is a flat surface after all) and lap it a bit more.