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Thread: Lapping Methods

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  1. #1
    Obsessed Sharpener
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    Question Lapping Methods

    Hey guys,

    I know there are many ways to skin a cat, and I wouldn't be surprised if there were a special knife for that!

    However, just as important as sharpening equipment is, so is their maintenance, especially for sharpening stones. I wondering what different methods people are using to lap their sharpening stones? I'm not trying to find the best way, but rather to get a comprehensive idea of all the different ways.

    For example, I love to use my Shapton DGLP, DRLP, and Compact Lapping plate with powders because A) I own all of them (being a dealer has its priveleges )B) because I think they are the most accurate and consistent, and C) because they are designed especially for Shapton products (but work well on any brand water stone.) The downside is that they are expensive, but I find that using them in a professional setting offers the speed, consistency and accuracy that is worth the cost.

    With that being said, there are also carbide powder(s) on glass, sandpaper on glass, stone to stone, DMT diamond plates, lapping disks (from hand-held to industrial), and even the curb just to name a few.

    But not everyone is sharpening as much, or as many different things, so lapping may not be such a priority or as essential.

    What do you use, and more importantly, why?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member sebell's Avatar
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    I use the DGLP on my set of GlassStones, and I
    use a broken-in DMT D8C for naturals. The DMT
    leaves a smoother finish, but won't be as flat as
    the DGLP.

    - Scott

  3. #3
    Beard growth challenged
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    220 grit silicon carbide on glass, followed by w/d sand paper up to 400 grit.
    I do it this way because its fast.

  4. #4
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    Ditto Olivia that's what I do as well and you bet it's fast and makes a very nice surface as well. I should say a surface close to the original feel on my Nortons.

  5. #5
    Nemo Me Impune Lacesset gratewhitehuntr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0livia View Post
    220 grit silicon carbide on glass, followed by w/d sand paper up to 400 grit.
    I do it this way because its fast.
    yup
    very fast
    barber hone? 5 mins !

    I have coarser grits for gnarly stuff (Arkansas anyone?)

    I also found some 1000 and 1500 silicon carbide

    I find there to be little difference between the two though

  6. #6
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    hhmmmm, i got 1200 as well, but not yet tried.

    You're so constructive today!

  7. #7
    Nemo Me Impune Lacesset gratewhitehuntr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0livia View Post
    hhmmmm, i got 1200 as well, but not yet tried.

    You're so constructive today!
    LOL

    ok well here goes another

    have you tried to use the dried slurry for anything?

    anyone?

    you can separate any remaining coarse grains by mixing the slurry with water
    the coarse grains are too heavy to stay suspended and will sink
    the finest particles suspend and can be poured off

    it seems a waste to throw away so much valuable stone and I would like to find some uses

    I've tried using it as a greaseless buffing compound with moderate success.
    Anyone else have any ideas?

  8. #8
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebell View Post
    I use the DGLP on my set of GlassStones, and I
    use a broken-in DMT D8C for naturals. The DMT
    leaves a smoother finish, but won't be as flat as
    the DGLP.

    - Scott
    +1on the GDLP for the Shapton pros and I also use the D8XX and follow it up with the D8C on Nortons and on the Naturals. Always in the kitchen sink with water running on them.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  9. #9
    Senior Member sebell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    +1on the GDLP for the Shapton pros and I also use the D8XX and follow it up with the D8C on Nortons and on the Naturals. Always in the kitchen sink with water running on them.
    The running water part of the equation is critical,
    Jimmy, thanks for mentioning it!

    - Scott

  10. #10
    Senior Member Howard's Avatar
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    For precision metal work, I have a steel plate made for the purpose and it uses a thixotropic grease of the Clover brand. The plate is HEAVY and the base is cast so there's minimal (< .00001") flex. The lapping surface is cross hatched to prevent any buildup of lapping compound which would throw off the process. If the plate is kept at consistent ambient temperature, you can get repeatable flatness to spec.

    For razors I use the DGLP on my Shapton glass stones supported flat by the stone holder and in the pond with its specially treated surface (very very flat and no slippage) on top of a granite surface plate flat to .0001" across the whole surface. This setup gets me consistent and repeatable results.

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