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Thread: Lapping Methods
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06-14-2009, 12:43 AM #1
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Thanked: 43Lapping Methods
Hey guys,
I know there are many ways to skin a cat, and I wouldn't be surprised if there were a special knife for that!
However, just as important as sharpening equipment is, so is their maintenance, especially for sharpening stones. I wondering what different methods people are using to lap their sharpening stones? I'm not trying to find the best way, but rather to get a comprehensive idea of all the different ways.
For example, I love to use my Shapton DGLP, DRLP, and Compact Lapping plate with powders because A) I own all of them (being a dealer has its priveleges )B) because I think they are the most accurate and consistent, and C) because they are designed especially for Shapton products (but work well on any brand water stone.) The downside is that they are expensive, but I find that using them in a professional setting offers the speed, consistency and accuracy that is worth the cost.
With that being said, there are also carbide powder(s) on glass, sandpaper on glass, stone to stone, DMT diamond plates, lapping disks (from hand-held to industrial), and even the curb just to name a few.
But not everyone is sharpening as much, or as many different things, so lapping may not be such a priority or as essential.
What do you use, and more importantly, why?
Thanks!
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06-14-2009, 01:47 AM #2
I use the DGLP on my set of GlassStones, and I
use a broken-in DMT D8C for naturals. The DMT
leaves a smoother finish, but won't be as flat as
the DGLP.
- Scott
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06-14-2009, 02:10 AM #3
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Thanked: 402220 grit silicon carbide on glass, followed by w/d sand paper up to 400 grit.
I do it this way because its fast.
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06-14-2009, 03:54 AM #4
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Thanked: 488Ditto Olivia that's what I do as well and you bet it's fast and makes a very nice surface as well. I should say a surface close to the original feel on my Nortons.
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06-14-2009, 04:34 AM #5
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06-14-2009, 05:50 AM #6
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06-14-2009, 07:16 PM #7
For precision metal work, I have a steel plate made for the purpose and it uses a thixotropic grease of the Clover brand. The plate is HEAVY and the base is cast so there's minimal (< .00001") flex. The lapping surface is cross hatched to prevent any buildup of lapping compound which would throw off the process. If the plate is kept at consistent ambient temperature, you can get repeatable flatness to spec.
For razors I use the DGLP on my Shapton glass stones supported flat by the stone holder and in the pond with its specially treated surface (very very flat and no slippage) on top of a granite surface plate flat to .0001" across the whole surface. This setup gets me consistent and repeatable results.
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06-15-2009, 09:24 AM #8
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- Jun 2009
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Thanked: 43Howard,
How do you compensate for the rotation of the earth and fact that the world is an oblong sphere?
You are one sick pup - to be precise!
Seriously though, since you like such precision, I am curious about how often you lap since theoretically, any stone will wear with each pass.
What is your tolorance? Is it a matter of strokes, after a side of a tool, after each tool, or do you use a timer, or do go by instinct?
Thanks!
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06-15-2009, 11:38 AM #9
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- Jan 2009
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- Alexandria, VA
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Thanked: 171For "heavy duty" lapping work, I use 3M sandblaster paper on my counter top, as I mentioned here. I use it because it's readily available, works well, and is inexpensive.
Other than that I use the DMT 325 (D8C) for regular lapping because it's pretty cheap, fast, easy, and convenient to use.
I don't own enough hones or razors to invest a lot of money into lapping with the DGLP, and I really can't imagine that the extra flatness would make any real difference in my shaves
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06-15-2009, 12:54 PM #10