I thought everything was uneven as soon as you started honing on it ?
I would also like to credit Tom for not plugging his sale in this thread.
I'm impressed.
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I thought everything was uneven as soon as you started honing on it ?
I would also like to credit Tom for not plugging his sale in this thread.
I'm impressed.
Where's Howard and his Metrologist?
Tom is the professional series really made a polymer binder?
Cause I've read today that: "The stone is fired to a high temperature with a mixture of fine #X000 abrasive and a clay binder."
I don't think the pro series are made with a polymer binder. I had this conversation with Harrelson several years ago, but for the life of me, I can't remember what he said:(. I was more interested in the abrasives in the pros, not the binder, which I do remember is silicon carbide.
I still have an unanswered email that I sent Harrleson several weeks ago. I think I'll try him again...
Yes, would be interesting to know.
this may or may not be helpful
but when I was lapping my shapton glass in the sink, the removed material floated and had the look of finely ground plastic (certain way it clumps)
I had come to the conclusion while using it that it was polymer
I have no idea, nor have I read what it is, but those were my observations.
EDIT
just saw we are talking PRO series
opps :gaah:
OK I WANT TO KNOW TOO !!!
GW, if you have a Shapton, just catch some next time, dry it and heat it up.
The smell should be obvious.
Forum member and hone freak Blaireau hasn't been posting lately. He is a scientist in the field of Polymers. He is a hone collector and he has the whole Shapton series. Here is a post he made on the topic when he was more active in the forums.
As far as how flat it needs to be, I tend to be a perfectionist. That is why I went for the $ for the GDLP. I want it as flat as I can get it. If this isn't 'that' important why do we even bother. BTW, I can feel a difference between a freshly flattened hone and one that is less so. YMMV. :)
For my #320 and #220, I don't worry too much because as long as I'm in the ballpark, I am personally OK. For my #1K and higher grit stones, I am a bit more picky. To try to keep Coarse grits completely flat would take a lot of time, and would wear the stone more through lapping rather than through sharpening.
I wanted to post this before, but I have noticed that even though the DGLP, DRLP, and lapping plates are very flat, one can still lap unevenly - either by accident, or on purpose.
By accident - With the compact, if you sprinkle a little too much powder in one place (get a buildup) or not evenly, then your stone will be unevenly lapped as a result. Also, if you put uneven pressure on the lapping late or stone, or go too far off the plate while lapping on any product, you can get a tapered stone.
On purpose - You can manipulate the area of lapping by pulling the stone too far down or up the plate, which focuses the lapping of the top and bottom areas, which usually need the most lapping. You can also purposely direct pressure to the area you want lapped. This helps save the plates and the stones. (This is more for the #220 and #320 stones. On the 1K+, I don't need to play with the lapping technique that often.)
As for feeling the stones flatness, I agree. I can feel when a stone is not flat, or when it is loosing its flatness. (Sometimes its even fun to feel the waves in really dipped stones:))That's one of the perks you quickly get by using consistently flat stones. It becomes very annoying to use someone else's not as perfect equipment. I think instead of Shapton stones not playing well with others, it should be PEOPLE who use Shaptons don't play well with others!";"