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  1. #11
    Professional Pedantic Pontificator
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    I've only had my hones for less than a week, so take my advice with a grain of salt (and a shot of penicillin)

    Personally, I can feel a HUGE difference between the edge off a shapton glass 8k and 16k. The 16k is much smoother.

    However, I'm not using any kind of paste. I go straight from my shapton 16k to my SRD web fabric and latigo strop, and then to my face.

  2. #12
    Senior Member kevint's Avatar
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    Another way to consider things: are you a sharpener or a shaver?

    Sharpeners are into it for the shop time; seeking a full knowledge of what the stones do and when they are done. If that's you; more and better hones.

    Shavers are all about posing in the mirror, rubbing froth and fat on their faces, and otherwise doddering and freshening up, smelling like a new kind of flower every day: If that's you;

    .....sorry I can't finish as I have cracked my self up

  3. #13
    Nemo Me Impune Lacesset gratewhitehuntr's Avatar
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    yeah well after the Escher or Swaty is there really any point?

    yeah...... I think I'll wait a while as I'm adjusting to these new stones

    sometimes you start a thread just so people can say what you are already thinking
    you know?

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    So what ever happened to the brick and whipping cream finisher?

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Heh...you've got a Charnley now...what else could ya possibly need?

    Mac

  6. #16
    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    Yes there is a point: after you buy the Shapton 16k, you will not need to start another thread like this for a long time!
    Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage

  7. #17
    Carbon-steel-aholic DwarvenChef's Avatar
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    Shapton 16k

    They don't like me...

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to DwarvenChef For This Useful Post:

    spazola (07-26-2009)

  9. #18
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    I just got my Shapton 16 and that thing is the bees knees. I did get it through that great sale Jenco industries had, so that might make me a little bit more fond of it b/c it was cheaper, but so far I think its great.

  10. #19
    Senior Member khaos's Avatar
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    After checking out a grit chart that someone complied I forget who, based on the micron means and stdev's provided by the manufacturers, Shapton's 12k=Japans industry standard (new JIS) 8k. Naniwa uses the new JIS stuff. According to the chart I would fully expect 16k Shapton to be similar to 12k Naniwa. Realistically, at this point you're at if not sub 1 micron, so in theory you could get a little sharper but one more step and you're at the sharpest an edge can be (Glen found somewhere that the sharpest edge that our steel's can hold is around .5 micron). CrO, Diamond paste, or a 30k Shapton will get you to/past this .5 micron point, but I would guess that as far as practicality goes, the 12k Nani or 16 GS is all you REALLY need. Because you can only get such a fine particle and no finer...

  11. #20
    Senior Member khaos's Avatar
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    After checking out a grit chart that someone complied I forget who, based on the micron means and stdev's provided by the manufacturers, Shapton's 12k=Japans industry standard (new JIS) 8k. Naniwa uses the new JIS stuff. According to the chart I would fully expect 16k Shapton to be similar to 12k Naniwa. Realistically, at this point you're at if not sub 1 micron, so in theory you could get a little sharper but one more step and you're at the sharpest an edge can be (Glen found somewhere that the sharpest edge that our steel's can hold is around .5 micron). CrO, Diamond paste, or a 30k Shapton will get you to/past this .5 micron point, but I would guess that as far as practicality goes, the 12k Nani or 16 GS is all you REALLY need. Because you can only get such a fine particle and no finer...
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    MarkinLondon (07-26-2010), Stubear (07-29-2009)

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