Thread: Coarse Powders anyone?

The MDF we have here is smooth on both sides. And, as it's flat relatively speaking, it makes a great medium to apply diamond to. The diamonds imbed and do their job. I don't know about the 2 mic diamond. There are diamond powders available in many different particle sizes though. I would mix them with, or, if you're buying pre-made diamond spray, etc, alcohol or oil based. You don't want a water based paste going on wood.

Since you do have 1k paste, you should first try setting a bevel by backhoning on some of that MDF and see what happens. I'll keep an eye out for your results.

Chris L

Maybe you could use them on a lower grit hone to speed up the bevel setting process. I am thinking using the 1500 or 3000 on the BBW to speed it up. Kind of like Bart did with the chrome-ox. You could then use the BBW as a bevel setter if you wanted.

Originally Posted by Pyment

Maybe you could use them on a lower grit hone to speed up the bevel setting process. I am thinking using the 1500 or 3000 on the BBW to speed it up. Kind of like Bart did with the chrome-ox. You could then use the BBW as a bevel setter if you wanted.

That's an interesting idea, but what that cause rounding of the bevel? I remember Bart talking about how using heavy slurry on the coticule for bevel setting created a slightly rounded bevel from the slurry-dulling effect. Would using coarse powders like a slurry on a hone create the same bevel-rounding?

BTW, I don't have any answer to this, I'm just supposing.

Dave has a good point but the ceramic particle shape and how it breaks down might affford some insight at the very least. Long shot but may some of the larger grits rolling around break down end up with a fine edge polished too and you could start a post One Pasted Strop Stropping
I am a sucker for stuff like that, it's all about them little particles.
Mike

Not to be a terminology snob, but I think you mean round the edge rather than the bevel, Dave. The bevel on each side of the blade meet at a line, the edge. I agree, with edge leading honing strokes and a free abrasive, the edge could suffer from "rounding". Edge trailing though? That's what I'm curious about.

Chris L

Originally Posted by ChrisL

Not to be a terminology snob, but I think you mean round the edge rather than the bevel, Dave. The bevel on each side of the blade meet at a line, the edge. I agree, with edge leading honing strokes and a free abrasive, the edge could suffer from "rounding". Edge trailing though? That's what I'm curious about.

Chris L

Yes, the bevel is not rounded but the edge, thanks for the correction. I imagined a bevel still created by two planes intersecting, just rounded over at the very edge. So if you zoomed in one the very tip of the bevel you would see a "U" shape instead of a "V".

Bart's illustration of a rounded edge after creating the bevel using a coticule w/slurry is a good picture of what I mean. Hopefully he won't mind me using the image again for demonstration purposes:

One thing I noticed when doing the powder thing, is that jumping from lower frit levels to higher grit levels doesn't really matter that much since the powders are really aggresive, had to put them on a leash. In my experience it wasn't worth using since its kinda dirty and also someone told me that the grit gets imbedded on the blade which is kinda scary. If someone is interested in purchasing powders metal master on ebay has them up to 30k.