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  1. #11
    Beard growth challenged
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    Gary if its getting bumpy, just rub it off with lighter fluid.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zib View Post
    Gary, what medium do you use to mix your crox powder?
    If i apply to leathe i mix my hand american powder with neat foot oil on baksa i have used 3 in 1 oil. The crayon does'nt go on my paddle that well as i rub crayon up and down it kind of puts it on then rub it off but on linen side of livi loom its easy.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0livia View Post
    Gary if its getting bumpy, just rub it off with lighter fluid.
    I rub it in so hard but i will try lighter fliud i've read you can rub it in with petrol on a rag.

  4. #14
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    Should have the same effect.
    Any solvent works.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Howard's Avatar
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    Default Bars are for rotating buffing wheels

    Bars are generally used by rubbing them into rotating cotton or linen buffing wheels. The wheel acts as the carrier for the compound and the rotating wheel buffs the metal. I buff razors this way although I use a white compound. This needs to be done carefully and with lots of body protection as the buffing wheel can grab the razor and fling it. It's one of the most dangerous tools in the metal working shop. My suggestion is you use the powder or liquid form of CrO.

  6. #16
    Senior Member matt321's Avatar
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    You can get an amazingly smooth application of the powder form by mixing it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with a plastic spray bottle from the drugstore. I did this onto webbing and it worked great. I used a level teaspoon in a 2 oz. sprayer. You can control the amount applied by spraying on less or by thinning the mixture. Mine came out with a slight green tint that was extremely uniform.

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    Last edited by matt321; 09-13-2009 at 08:27 PM.

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    JimmyHAD (09-19-2009), randydance062449 (09-15-2009), zib (09-19-2009)

  8. #17
    Member again CloseShave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt321 View Post
    You can get an amazingly smooth application of the powder form by mixing it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with a plastic spray bottle from the drugstore. I did this onto webbing and it worked great. I used a level teaspoon in a 2 oz. sprayer. You can control the amount applied by spraying on less or by thinning the mixture. Mine came out with a slight green tint that was extremely uniform.

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    Great suggestion. Is that a teaspoon of alcohol to what quantity of powder? The uniformity on the stop is impressive.

  9. #18
    Senior Member matt321's Avatar
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    Add approx one teaspoon of the powder to the bottle and then add the alcohol. This is just what seemed about right to me. I haven't experimented with different concentrations. I kept it thin so it wouldn't clog. So far that hasn't been a problem.

    Here is what it looks like settled over night and then shaken:

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    Last edited by matt321; 09-14-2009 at 06:39 PM.

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  11. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    Genius
    excellent job

  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt321 View Post
    You can get an amazingly smooth application of the powder form by mixing it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with a plastic spray bottle from the drugstore. I did this onto webbing and it worked great. I used a level teaspoon in a 2 oz. sprayer. You can control the amount applied by spraying on less or by thinning the mixture. Mine came out with a slight green tint that was extremely uniform.

    Name:  IMG_0764.jpg
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    You can also do this with water mixed with detergent. It does look nice when its done, looks like its been dyed light green (if you're applying it to cloth).

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