Yeah, I've heard of safety concerns from those who just don't trust a sharp knife, but others talk of a 'working' edge, essentially one that is applied quickly with a coarser grit and provides more slicing aggression (totally useless in this context here). It also comes from the mistaken notion that a sharper or thinner edge will dull faster. The initial cutting ability is lost quickly, but that is true at most finishes, the initial sharpness drops immediately and then plateaus at a certain point (this is a measured result from a few knife tests on abrasive material like Catra, manila rope, and cardboard) Yet, a sharper edge is reduced to a lower level of sharpness, which will still be higher than the edge that started off duller to begin with. And a thinner edge requires less force to make a cut than a thicker edge of equal finish and a greater included angle.

I think you guys work in a tighter range of angles, so this really shouldn't be a concern, but sometimes the edges just fall apart when you go too low. The steel does not have the ductility to withstand sharpening forces when it is made that thin.

It is of course very important to note the difference in sharpening and edge angle of the blade that managed the 0.26 micron edge width, but that is also a commentary on the suitability of certain combinations of honing tools, steel, steel properties (hardness, toughness, wear resistance) and chosen edge angle.

I've been reading about and participating (as a rank amateur) in these sharpening discussions for a few years, but to read about the perspective of a straight shaver is pretty cool. Maybe I'll get there one day.