Thread: nakayama asagi slurry help !

many thanks to all

refreshing the slurry would be to REMAKE THE SLURRY and DROP OFF THE OLD SLURRY? or only remake it on the old slurry??

jim generally on the japanese hone the slurry breakdown SIGNAL is the PASTE- LIKE DARK SLURRY or a simple DARK SLURRY??

thanks

I've tried both ways. It seems like making all new slurry would cut a bit faster if the razor has a way to go still, but I'll let Jim confirm that. I've actually been wondering how critical that is myself.

I'm not really sure if there is any definite "signal" that the slurry is broken down; only that by the time it gets thick, it should be. Again, I'll let Jim confirm that.

Originally Posted by JimR

Oz, he's referring to the final stages of finishing slurry, which gets dark from the steel removed from the blade.

I've never had satisfactory results from a very diluted slurry or water-only finish, but I don't have your stone.

Thanx Jim, that explains it. Sounded like the OP was talking about an Aoto with dark slurry

On the diluting & water etc. I'm sure we both use a different honing process, yours being a more traditional approach, I think, so it may not be just my stone that influences results. Just shows the versatility of these rocks.

Originally Posted by danzyc

many thanks to all

refreshing the slurry would be to REMAKE THE SLURRY and DROP OFF THE OLD SLURRY? or only remake it on the old slurry??

jim generally on the japanese hone the slurry breakdown SIGNAL is the PASTE- LIKE DARK SLURRY or a simple DARK SLURRY??

thanks

you make your first slurry and use it until it needs change. Wash it off and make slurry again, use it and refresh again, you do that as many times as needed , for my stones 3 times is enough, then last refresh you work it untill it's dark from removed steel.

how you finish the razor? with slurry breakdowned or with water ?

Originally Posted by danzyc

how you finish the razor? with slurry breakdowned or with water ?

It totally depends on your stone. You'll have to try & see what works best.

As far as darkness goes, I wouldn't get too hung up over it--my stone produces a dull brownish-orange slurry that gets tinged grey toward the end (It usually gets thick in 2-3 minutes if I've got the consistency right), but it certainly doesn't turn black. Pay attention to how the blade feels on the stone & how evenly hazy the bevel looks. As Jim's barber would say, "just hone!"

Originally Posted by PA23-250

I've tried both ways. It seems like making all new slurry would cut a bit faster if the razor has a way to go still, but I'll let Jim confirm that. I've actually been wondering how critical that is myself.

I'm not really sure if there is any definite "signal" that the slurry is broken down; only that by the time it gets thick, it should be. Again, I'll let Jim confirm that.

First point: I tend to make my slurry without washing, but I haven't made a real comparison of both ways. I'll work on that this weekend. But since I get good results without it, I don't know that it's critical one way or another.

Second point: Yeah, that's it. The real signal is that keenness of the blade stops improving at a certain point, meaning the particles have lost their faster honing power. The visual cues, darkness and increasing thickness, are kind of coincidental but, since they're much easier to check for a new honer than keenness tests like HHT/AHT/TPT, I recommended them in the guide.