natural duel stone a llyn melynllyn and dragons tongue

I have been going from the Coti or DT to the Llyn Melynllyn with slurry 25 laps, then 20 laps glycerin diluted with water. Shaves are fairly smooth....... Of course I can shave directly off the Coti or the DT. The LM seems to enhance the edge.

Jerry
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Originally Posted by Zephyr

DaveW, have you tried finishing with a light slurry instead of water? Some have earlier in this thread mentioned that it keeps the keeness and removes the harshness that way.
I have had no problem with harshness, but that might be my skin, but I will try it if anything just to see if it makes any difference to me.

The main surprise I got from taking the pics was the DT on slurry, it's quite a bit rougher than the Naniwa 8K, I would guesstimate it to be around the 5-6K area, but it smoothens out pretty fast when diluted.

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Yes, for my second shave, I went slurry only, but maybe not as diluted as I should. I ended up tuning up the razor with my japanese stone after that.

I'll give it another go here soon. I put oil on the stone last night, it is miles different in feel, but I need to drop to a thinner oil (or at least remove most of it) as I wasn't getting any cutting action from the stone.

I did notice for tools, the edge that I get off of a sigma power 13k is much (much much) keener than the LM, that being with straight water or slurry - either one. Tools and razors aren't necessarily the same thing, though, and that is a very fine stone, second probably only to the shapton 30k. It is finer and more keen than a cho 10k or shapton 15k (both of which I have).

I have the dark blue slate hone also on the way, so if I do something undersirable with the oil on the purple slate, it's not a big deal, I'm not quite satisfied with it as a razor stone compared to the other stones I have. I think with a little more time, I can probably get what I want out of it, but if the blue slate is finer, I'll just end up using that as a razor stone and use the purple LM with oil in the wood shop (despite the oil not working the way I wanted to with razors, it works fine with tools, but the question then is does it make sense to use a stone that takes longer to the get the same results as a synthetic stone).

We'll see.

Guys, I going to move this thread to advanced honing....

The edge the LM put on my Filarmonica was really nice.
Tonight, I'm going to fine tune another razor and try the oil right at very end, I'll use most of the laps with slurry and only 20 without slurry, using oil instead of water.
Will shave in the morning and report here.

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Originally Posted by DaveW

Tools and razors aren't necessarily the same thing,

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Very true this. The seller use these stones in his shop. He recommends these stones be lapped to 360 grit, at the most. I did not follow his advice. I lapped mine to 1200, then used a barber's hone after that to make it even finer, and finally I used the provided slurry stone to work over the hone for maximum smoothness. I left the other side of the stone at 360. I use the hones with slurry, diluted to water. I never used the 360 side, I am consistently happy with my results off the polished side. In approaching these hones, if you find all else fails, perhaps consider this approach.

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Originally Posted by str8fencer

Very true this. The seller use these stones in his shop. He recommends these stones be lapped to 360 grit, at the most. I did not follow his advice. I lapped mine to 1200, then used a barber's hone after that to make it even finer, and finally I used the provided slurry stone to work over the hone for maximum smoothness. I left the other side of the stone at 360. I use the hones with slurry, diluted to water. I never used the 360 side, I am consistently happy with my results off the polished side. In approaching these hones, if you find all else fails, perhaps consider this approach.

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And how do you "re-lap" the hone every time you use it? Do you use the 360-1200-barber hone sequence? That's a lot of work to do everytime you use it, no? I light lap the LM with my DMT 325 every single time I use it.

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Originally Posted by Leon

The edge the LM put on my Filarmonica was really nice.
Tonight, I'm going to fine tune another razor and try the oil right at very end, I'll use most of the laps with slurry and only 20 without slurry, using oil instead of water.
Will shave in the morning and report here.

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So, here am I after a great morning shave. The LM with oil really gets "slippery". The razor slides through the hone gracefully and effortlessly. The shave was very smooth. No irritation at all and I have sensitive skin.
I honed another razor, a big Solingen razor. I used about 50-60 with heavy slurry, added a couple of drops of water in the last 20 laps. Rinsed it, put some olive oil and did another 20. Great edge! My other finishers are going to see some shelf time.

Honed up a Shumate Barber last night in the shop. Chosera 1k, Norton 4/8, LM medium slurry (I use a C12K slurry stone) to water in ten stroke dilutions. Rinse. 50 on water only.

Strop: SRD Roo at 50 leather. really nice shave this morning. I'm going to take this exact razor tonight and put it on the LM with sewing machine oil to see what the outcome is.

Seeing as that I haven't had my stones all that long, I'm not sure how I'll lap them. I'm still at the testing stage on the polished hone. I'll want to do a bunch of testing on the DMT 325 face. Also, the longevity of the face is something we haven't explored yet either.....ie: how many razors can be finished before it begins to dish.

If there's no difference in the edge between the polished side and the DMT face....then I'll lap with the DMT. I could also use the DMT on the water stone, and use the oil stone to finish (and keep it's face polished)...

...ahhhh so many variables. So much fun! :)

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Originally Posted by Maxi

Honed up a Shumate Barber last night in the shop. Chosera 1k, Norton 4/8, LM medium slurry (I use a C12K slurry stone) to water in ten stroke dilutions. Rinse. 50 on water only.

Strop: SRD Roo at 50 leather. really nice shave this morning. I'm going to take this exact razor tonight and put it on the LM with sewing machine oil to see what the outcome is.

Seeing as that I haven't had my stones all that long, I'm not sure how I'll lap them. I'm still at the testing stage on the polished hone. I'll want to do a bunch of testing on the DMT 325 face. Also, the longevity of the face is something we haven't explored yet either.....ie: how many razors can be finished before it begins to dish.

If there's no difference in the edge between the polished side and the DMT face....then I'll lap with the DMT. I could also use the DMT on the water stone, and use the oil stone to finish (and keep it's face polished)...

...ahhhh so many variables. So much fun! :)

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You may condsider using glycerin instead of oil. There is no clean up. It works for me?? McWolf told me to use it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maxi

Honed up a Shumate Barber last night in the shop. Chosera 1k, Norton 4/8, LM medium slurry (I use a C12K slurry stone) to water in ten stroke dilutions. Rinse. 50 on water only.

Strop: SRD Roo at 50 leather. really nice shave this morning. I'm going to take this exact razor tonight and put it on the LM with sewing machine oil to see what the outcome is.

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That should be interesting. 50 laps with only water has given me a slightly harsh edge to me.

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Originally Posted by Leon

And how do you "re-lap" the hone every time you use it? Do you use the 360-1200-barber hone sequence? That's a lot of work to do everytime you use it, no? I light lap the LM with my DMT 325 every single time I use it.

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Not sure I quite understand your question here. I lapped my stones like described above. On using them I raise some slurry with the provided slurry stone. That's all, very simple and quick. I do not lap my stones after/before use.