Setting the Bevel, a vague definition.
I dont remember where i saw this, perhaps in a book, anyway it was written that the definition "Bevel Setting" was vague an missing accuracy, and it was suggested to divide in 3 specific categories.
Bevel rebuilt = After removing large chips, breadknifing, serrated razor edge, rebuilding a complete bevel from scratch.
Bevel repair= Working out some rust and minor chips.
Bevel correction = On a dull razor just refreshing each side of the bevel. To expose new metal.
Unmistakably a big difference between a "correction" VS "rebuilt", and yet we still use the same definition.
Setting the Bevel, a vague definition.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ace
A bevel is essentially the V-shaped structure of the edge of the blade where the two sides of the razor meet in a point or longitudinally an edge.
Only because this is a nit picky thread...
Technically a bevel is the taper on one face or side of the razor. Traditionally a razor has two bevels (one on each side or blade face) and ideally these bevels meet. More ideally still, they meet at the centerline of the blade (excluding some special blades such as Kamisori). If these conditions are met, the edge or intersection of the bevels lies in a single plane that extends through the edge and the center of the spine.
Regardless of what precedes the creation of a continuous intersection of these two bevels. The bevels are "set" when the intersection is established completely (in my book at least). Any work beyond this is honing.
Obviously exceptions exist, and various degrees of non-ideal conditions are possible (such as a warped blade).
:D
Setting the Bevel, a vague definition.
Imagine scooting a hardened steel razor blade down a gravel road...the road is so coarse that the rocks would likely impact and chip or crack the blade.
Now think of something finer than a gravel road...at some point you will get fine enough that the "rocks" floating around in the slurry are not large enough to wreck a blade.
Some razors may be more delicate than others. 250 is quite coarse, but in some cases I might use a diamond hone that coarse to get through some major damage (no slurry). I have not cracked a blade....but I'm hardly a veteran with razor honing.