Thread: Setting the Bevel, a vague definition.

I dont remember where i saw this, perhaps in a book, anyway it was written that the definition "Bevel Setting" was vague an missing accuracy, and it was suggested to divide in 3 specific categories.

Bevel rebuilt = After removing large chips, breadknifing, serrated razor edge, rebuilding a complete bevel from scratch.

Bevel repair= Working out some rust and minor chips.

Bevel correction = On a dull razor just refreshing each side of the bevel. To expose new metal.

Unmistakably a big difference between a "correction" VS "rebuilt", and yet we still use the same definition.

The definition of 'bevel' is going to be the same whatever the reason for re-establishing it might be. A razor can have no bevel, a misshapen bevel or a damaged bevel, but having a proper bevel is always the goal. A bevel is essentially the V-shaped structure of the edge of the blade where the two sides of the razor meet in a point or longitudinally an edge. Having a clear sense of the goal of honing, starting with the bevel, gives us a destination to move toward and by which to evaluate our honing progress.

I wouldn't worry about definitions or descriptions. it's all the same just a matter of degree. When you are working on the edge whether stropping or resetting you are working on the bevel.

20-40 circles per side on a 1k stone, and then 20 or so X laps to even up the work = Bevel set

Anything taking a lower grit stone, or a longer amount of time, is restoration in my book

After I am done with the restoration, then I set the Bevel

After the Bevel is set, then I hone the razor

Those are my definitions

I usually use a loupe to see how the bevel is coming along and of course I use the TNT that usually tells me when it's ready

id just like to add that i took a smile out bread-knifing last night on DMT325 ... it felt so wrong like i should of smacked myself ...lol.. ive done so much to learn how to make them sharp and now i purposely made it dull ....lol... gonna let the boy use it this weekend before start the bevel process ..

Originally Posted by gooser

id just like to add that i took a smile out bread-knifing last night on DMT325 ... it felt so wrong like i should of smacked myself ...lol.. ive done so much to learn how to make them sharp and now i purposely made it dull ....lol... gonna let the boy use it this weekend before start the bevel process ..

Remember what Confucius say: "Man who breadknife razor can eat cake."

Originally Posted by ace

A bevel is essentially the V-shaped structure of the edge of the blade where the two sides of the razor meet in a point or longitudinally an edge.

Only because this is a nit picky thread...

Technically a bevel is the taper on one face or side of the razor. Traditionally a razor has two bevels (one on each side or blade face) and ideally these bevels meet. More ideally still, they meet at the centerline of the blade (excluding some special blades such as Kamisori). If these conditions are met, the edge or intersection of the bevels lies in a single plane that extends through the edge and the center of the spine.

Regardless of what precedes the creation of a continuous intersection of these two bevels. The bevels are "set" when the intersection is established completely (in my book at least). Any work beyond this is honing.

Obviously exceptions exist, and various degrees of non-ideal conditions are possible (such as a warped blade).

Okay so I used a 250 for the first time and some of you saw it. This bread knife thing is not how I took out a frown. I had seen someone use the edge of the hone and a straight down approach. Maybe this should be a new thread but I am here now :<0) Which is better and why for *cough cough** setting a bevel. Some said a 250 will crack a blade when setting a bevel and that got me wondering how ? I got more bevel setting/repair/correction/alteration to do :<0). And now I don't even know what to call it !

Did I just spill the open can of worms ?

Imagine scooting a hardened steel razor blade down a gravel road...the road is so coarse that the rocks would likely impact and chip or crack the blade.

Now think of something finer than a gravel road...at some point you will get fine enough that the "rocks" floating around in the slurry are not large enough to wreck a blade.

Some razors may be more delicate than others. 250 is quite coarse, but in some cases I might use a diamond hone that coarse to get through some major damage (no slurry). I have not cracked a blade....but I'm hardly a veteran with razor honing.