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Thread: Help Finishing a Warped TI

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K37 View Post
    The bevel doesn't sit flat when I'm honing on one side...ie. the middle is raised on one side just slightly so I have to apply a little pressure to get it to touch the hone and on the reverse side, I have to roll around that spot to hit the rest of the edge.
    So then the razor is not straight?
    Stefan

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    K37
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    Quote Originally Posted by bill3152 View Post
    My first dovo was like this. I honed it on 325 dmt 600 1200. To set the bevel. Its a shame a brand new razor is made like this. But to me if it doesn't shave, its useless.
    Were you grinding down the bevel or the spine to get it to touch flat on both sides?
    Last edited by K37; 05-29-2013 at 12:27 AM.

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K37 View Post
    Were to grinding down the bevel or the spine to get it to touch flat on both sides?
    The way I see it you have two options for the side where the middle does not touch the hone.
    You can try x stroke 45* heel forward but you have to draw the razor all the way out till the very toe. If this works you do not have to do anything to the spine.
    The other option is start honing with no tape till you form bevel in the middle.
    The other side will work with rolling x-stroke I think.
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    Stefan

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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    So then the razor is not straight?
    The blade seems warped in the middle. The bevel in the middle is wider on one side and very thin on the other side. The thin bevel side won't touch the hone in the middle on a 45 degree cant and will only touch when a little pressure is applied behind the edge on that side. The other side rocks and I can hit fine with a rolling stroke.

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    K37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    The way I see it you have two options for the side where the middle does not touch the hone.
    You can try x stroke 45* heel forward but you have to draw the razor all the way out till the very toe. If this works you do not have to do anything to the spine.
    The other option is start honing with no tape till you form bevel in the middle.
    The other side will work with rolling x-stroke I think.

    I see what you're saying here I think....thank you...I'll try that one. It seems like adding another layer of tape might help from what others are saying as well.

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    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    A blade like that should never have left the factory in my opinion, bad QC.
    Got a Dovo coming that has to be sharpened again, it has the same problem.
    I was the first person to hone it after it left with it's "shave ready" Dovo edge and man, I can tell you,
    I do not like to take a brand new blade to the DMT hones but he wanted it flat sided for easy honing so I had too.
    He's beginner honer and if I would have used a narrow hone and some tricks, he would be in trouble later.
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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K37 View Post
    The bevel doesn't sit flat when I'm honing on one side...ie. the middle is raised on one side just slightly so I have to apply a little pressure to get it to touch the hone and on the reverse side, I have to roll around that spot to hit the rest of the edge.
    The razor will not sit flat on a wide stone so no point in using the whole stone to hone it, unless the warp is so minor that you can flatten the spine out enough to deal with it. Thing is, sometimes the warp is in the edge & not the spine.

    Draw a pencil line 1" away & parallel from the edge of your hone & only hone on that area. You will need to rock & roll your x stroke to make contact but at 1k you should get both sides to meet altho the bevel width will vary.
    Make sure the edge of your stone is smooth & chamfered also. Can you visualise what I mean ? The toe of the razor will make little if any contact with the opposite side of the stone.
    maddafinga and Euclid440 like this.
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    K37
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    The razor will not sit flat on a wide stone so no point in using the whole stone to hone it, unless the warp is so minor that you can flatten the spine out enough to deal with it. Thing is, sometimes the warp is in the edge & not the spine.

    Draw a pencil line 1" away & parallel from the edge of your hone & only hone on that area. You will need to rock & roll your x stroke to make contact but at 1k you should get both sides to meet altho the bevel width will vary.
    Make sure the edge of your stone is smooth & chamfered also. Can you visualise what I mean ? The toe of the razor will make little if any contact with the opposite side of the stone.
    I think I see what you're saying. Basically use the right 1/3 of the hone (I'm right handed) and use and x-stroke, right?

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Yup, that's it. It's not a corrective measure but will get you a bevel.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    Use decreasing pressure on the side where the middle does not touch the hone while continuing with low pressure rolling strokes on the other side.
    I'm explaining better:
    Start with enough pressure until the edge in the middle is formed. Gradually lower the pressure and continue. That will progressively form the edge starting from the middle towards the sides. At the end, with low pressure you will form the edge at tip and toe. If the edge shaping is not simply an arc the same principle applies, but you must be more careful to different blade areas.
    Help the whole procedure with the method suggested by onimaru, in order to avoid excessive pressure and form the edge in the middle.
    Stay very light with the rolling strokes on the other side, otherwise you risk to grab in the stone and damage the edge in the middle.
    Good luck.

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