Thread: Help Finishing a Warped TI

Stefan, what do you mean by "over grind?"

Originally Posted by K37

Stefan, what do you mean by "over grind?"

Where you do not have bevel the steel has a dip , it was ground more than the rest of the blade.
Another possibility, that I did not think of initially, is the blade is not straight and the middle does not touch the stone, you can check that by laying on a flat surface.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Where you do not have bevel the steel has a dip , it was ground more than the rest of the blade.
Another possibility, that I did not think of initially, is the blade is not straight and the middle does not touch the stone, you can check that by laying on a flat surface.

The bevel doesn't sit flat when I'm honing on one side...ie. the middle is raised on one side just slightly so I have to apply a little pressure to get it to touch the hone and on the reverse side, I have to roll around that spot to hit the rest of the edge.

Originally Posted by K37

The bevel doesn't sit flat when I'm honing on one side...ie. the middle is raised on one side just slightly so I have to apply a little pressure to get it to touch the hone and on the reverse side, I have to roll around that spot to hit the rest of the edge.

So then the razor is not straight?

Originally Posted by mainaman

So then the razor is not straight?

The blade seems warped in the middle. The bevel in the middle is wider on one side and very thin on the other side. The thin bevel side won't touch the hone in the middle on a 45 degree cant and will only touch when a little pressure is applied behind the edge on that side. The other side rocks and I can hit fine with a rolling stroke.

Originally Posted by K37

The bevel doesn't sit flat when I'm honing on one side...ie. the middle is raised on one side just slightly so I have to apply a little pressure to get it to touch the hone and on the reverse side, I have to roll around that spot to hit the rest of the edge.

The razor will not sit flat on a wide stone so no point in using the whole stone to hone it, unless the warp is so minor that you can flatten the spine out enough to deal with it. Thing is, sometimes the warp is in the edge & not the spine.

Draw a pencil line 1" away & parallel from the edge of your hone & only hone on that area. You will need to rock & roll your x stroke to make contact but at 1k you should get both sides to meet altho the bevel width will vary.
Make sure the edge of your stone is smooth & chamfered also. Can you visualise what I mean ? The toe of the razor will make little if any contact with the opposite side of the stone.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

The razor will not sit flat on a wide stone so no point in using the whole stone to hone it, unless the warp is so minor that you can flatten the spine out enough to deal with it. Thing is, sometimes the warp is in the edge & not the spine.

Draw a pencil line 1" away & parallel from the edge of your hone & only hone on that area. You will need to rock & roll your x stroke to make contact but at 1k you should get both sides to meet altho the bevel width will vary.
Make sure the edge of your stone is smooth & chamfered also. Can you visualise what I mean ? The toe of the razor will make little if any contact with the opposite side of the stone.

I think I see what you're saying. Basically use the right 1/3 of the hone (I'm right handed) and use and x-stroke, right?

Yup, that's it. It's not a corrective measure but will get you a bevel.

Use decreasing pressure on the side where the middle does not touch the hone while continuing with low pressure rolling strokes on the other side.
I'm explaining better:
Start with enough pressure until the edge in the middle is formed. Gradually lower the pressure and continue. That will progressively form the edge starting from the middle towards the sides. At the end, with low pressure you will form the edge at tip and toe. If the edge shaping is not simply an arc the same principle applies, but you must be more careful to different blade areas.
Help the whole procedure with the method suggested by onimaru, in order to avoid excessive pressure and form the edge in the middle.
Stay very light with the rolling strokes on the other side, otherwise you risk to grab in the stone and damage the edge in the middle.
Good luck.

I agree with Magpie on this. You can try what the others have suggested but IMHO using a convex surface is the only effective method.