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06-04-2015, 12:19 AM #11
Yes Mr. Whoever, that's the way to go!
To the OP... This is off-topic, but perhaps worth mentioning, as you are interested in learning. Another approach, again using naguras: An Aoto-type nagura (medium hardness), grit around 2k on average and getting finer as you go, can probably get you up to 3k. Follow that with a medium-grit, moderately hard nagura (Mejiro, or even DT slurry itself) to get to 5-6-7k. [I need to note that I don't really trust the advertised grit of those slates, neverteless, they are very useful and I've been using them with a lot of success. I assume that the DT can get you to 8-9K with minimal effort, on water.]
So, there you go, at this stage you are ready for a finisher. I actually find this part to be tricky and where the steel and the stone really, either come together, or fall apart. Example: My 6/8 Bengall Sheffield, full hollow, shaves like a dream off of the Welsh slate (Yellow Lake). On the other hand, a Solingen-made EKS loves a harder stone (an unknown Jnat, very hard) and simply isn't as keen on the slate...
Another useful tool to have in the arsenal: a cheapo jeweler's loupe. Can be had for less than $5 and highly recommended for examining the scratch marks on your edges.
Hope this o/t babble didn't bother you too much... I'll shut up now.As the time passes, so we learn.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Srdjan For This Useful Post:
Drygulch (06-04-2015)