Thread: Disaster - ruined!

Yikes!

I have found that a hot rinse, towel wipe, followed by a wipe with a small cloth saturated with WD40 works even when storing your razors in the bathroom. Never a spot. YMMV etc etc.

Hi Neil - saw some video on using a scuttle, and the guy put his SR in the scuttle with the brush...guess I was I figured that was the thing to do...from your answer, getting the idea that's something NOT to do!

Originally Posted by doktorg

Yikes!

I have found that a hot rinse, towel wipe, followed by a wipe with a small cloth saturated with WD40 works even when storing your razors in the bathroom. Never a spot. YMMV etc etc.

The keywords here are WD = water displacing .

Originally Posted by onimaru55

The keywords here are WD = water displacing .

Definitely not recommended - not for a prolonged period of time, anyway.

When I have finished shaving I dip the blade in hot water for 5 - 10 secs to heat the steel a bit, then wipe it down and let it air before stropping it a few times on canvas (cleans and makes sure the bevel is dry) and putting it away.

If you wipe it and then immediately oil it, you are running the risk of trapping a film of water under the oil, with possible oxidation as the result. YOu won't see the 'film' of water - it is held in the small scratches and pores in the steel. You won't even feel that it is there - but it is.

Under magnification the polished surface of the blade looks like a mass of fine scratches, remnants of grind marks, shallow pores, etc - all perfectly capable of trapping water, even after you have wiped the blade - you need to let this film evaporate, which is why its a good idea to let the razor air for a bit in a dry, well ventilated place.

Soapy water isn't a problem, but the fact that soap makes water 'wetter' means it is more able to creep into any crack and crevice.

If you thoroughly dry the blade (wipe, air - blade open is best) and store sensibly, then you will have little need to oil if you use the razor on a regular basis.

Once any pores in the fabric of the steel have been compromised by tarnish some pitting inevitably occurs, even if it is on a small scale and hard to see with the unaided eye, so you will have to take double the care when you get your razor back.

Regards,
Neil

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

Definitely not recommended - not for a prolonged period of time, anyway.

When I have finished shaving I dip the blade in hot water for 5 - 10 secs to heat the steel a bit, then wipe it down and let it air before stropping it a few times on canvas (cleans and makes sure the bevel is dry) and putting it away.

If you wipe it and then immediately oil it, you are running the risk of trapping a film of water under the oil, with possible oxidation as the result. YOu won't see the 'film' of water - it is held in the small scratches and pores in the steel. You won't even feel that it is there - but it is.

Under magnification the polished surface of the blade looks like a mass of fine scratches, remnants of grind marks, shallow pores, etc - all perfectly capable of trapping water, even after you have wiped the blade - you need to let this film evaporate, which is why its a good idea to let the razor air for a bit in a dry, well ventilated place.

Soapy water isn't a problem, but the fact that soap makes water 'wetter' means it is more able to creep into any crack and crevice.

If you thoroughly dry the blade (wipe, air - blade open is best) and store sensibly, then you will have little need to oil if you use the razor on a regular basis.

Once any pores in the fabric of the steel have been compromised by tarnish some pitting inevitably occurs, even if it is on a small scale and hard to see with the unaided eye, so you will have to take double the care when you get your razor back.

Regards,
Neil

Thanks Neil!

Going to have a shave today with one of my yard sale razors....the Solingen Holeka seems absolutely shave ready! Already stropped it about 20/40, will do 20/50 again before I shave. Since it's from a yard sale, going to follow instructions and soak in Barbicide for 10 minutes to disinfect, rinse clean. Shave, and instead of rinsing razor with hot water every time, going to wipe soap off with tissue (like my old barber used to do), rinse once with hot water, dry with tissue thoroughly, and let air dry.

I'm fairly positive while I was drying thoroughly, I was to quickly applying Tuff-Glide oil and setting aside, thus trapping some water.

Question, I shave about every other day, for that time, sounds like I don't need to oil the razor? Sound correct?

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Phrank

Thanks Neil!

I'm fairly positive while I was drying thoroughly, I was to quickly applying Tuff-Glide oil and setting aside, thus trapping some water.

Question, I shave about every other day, for that time, sounds like I don't need to oil the razor? Sound correct?

Cheers!

Certainly is. Just make sure inside of scales are dry too.

Regards,
Neil

Thanks!

I Always make sure the scales are dry!

Have a good day!

Originally Posted by Phrank

I'm fairly positive while I was drying thoroughly, I was to quickly applying Tuff-Glide oil and setting aside, thus trapping some water.

Question, I shave about every other day, for that time, sounds like I don't need to oil the razor? Sound correct?

Cheers!

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Neil here. I guess my mileage has varied on this subject.

I've been oiling my razors immediately after a wipe dry for years using a WD type spray tho not WD40. No rust issues.
A good WD type spray will displace water rather than the opposite. That's what they do.

Where you live & how you use & store your razors may colour your opinions on oiling or not. eg I never rinse a blade only wipe it. The most exposure my razors get to plain water is during honing.
It is not uncommon for RH to be in the high 90's here. I can heat a wiped dry blade with a hairdryer & see the rust form immediately, especially if it is a freshly ground restoration.. I'd rather displace any trapped water with an appropriate product immediately & not see the rust .

I'd agree with Neil on not using WD40 for longterm storage without a weekly reapplication. There are much better products around which will not dry out or wash off with water.