Thread: Really no pressure during stropping ...?

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

We mean F*&k all pressure, which is almost no pressure.
But that might be an Aussie term that goes right past you straight through to the keeper.
That ALSO might be an Aussie term that leaves you with a look on your face like a stunned mullet.
That ALSO might be an Aussie term that...I'll shut up now...

Nah, no worries mate; I'm bonza with aussie slang. For a yank, that is ...

I'd compare it to finishing honing. Just enough to make contact and stay in place as you move it along. So sweet stuff all. hope that helps

Originally Posted by Headcrowny

Nah, no worries mate; I'm bonza with aussie slang. For a yank, that is ...

Oh good, no probs...

Actually what you have to do is bear down on that bugger like you're trying to drown yer worst enemy before his dog gets to ya!...That, just in case some idiot gets the wrong idea and actually does this, is meant to be a joke!


Mick

No expert here, but I use just enough pressure that I feel and hear the draw. I went with the zero pressure approach at first, and the results were not very good. Now, I'm getting good shaves. Also, before honing, I apply the natural oils from my forehead, via my palm to the strap. I do this till the strap is hot enough that it's almost uncomfortable to my palm! It does make a difference on the draw...it reduces the pressure needed for a good draw. Funny the things you think up after 3 vodka tonics, haha.

I use a little pressure but I go more by the sound as the zip sound tells me its perfect. I strop slack also and it really improves the edge and keeps it going for a long time.

Well no not absolute zero (no temperature pun intended). Your answer lies within the laws of friction. Specifically kinetic friction. When one considers the energy expended while stropping one understands that the "law of conservation of energy" means it is lost to the system by transforming into heat.

Simply stated When an object is pushed along a surface, the energy converted to heat is given by:



where

, is the normal force,

, is the coefficient of kinetic friction,

, is the coordinate along which the object transverses.

Energy lost to a system as a result of friction is a classic example of thermodynamic irreversibility

This heat of course is used to polish the bevel surface of the razors thereby delivering a smoother shave. You can therefore conclude that some amount of pressure is require.

I hope this clears it up for you.

As with knife sharpening (which I have done semi-professionally for several years) I use the weight of the blade or less.

You are dealing with very fine corrections/enhancements to a bevel. I liken the abrasive to the hammer size. You use a sledge for large adjustments with a powerful overhead swing. A 2 ounce peen hammer uses much shorter and less powerful strokes. If you are still using power at the fine adjustment stage, you are not where you think you are.

I use a little pressure, in the form of "torque" toward the edge such that the spine is just barely touching or just above the surface of the strop. Doing it that way ensures good contact with the edge, sharpening and shaping it for shaving. With that approach and a canvas/leather strop I've used my razor for over three years, starting with it's factory edge, never once honing it on a stone.

Originally Posted by JeffR

I use a little pressure, in the form of "torque" toward the edge such that the spine is just barely touching or just above the surface of the strop. Doing it that way ensures good contact with the edge, sharpening and shaping it for shaving. With that approach and a canvas/leather strop I've used my razor for over three years, starting with it's factory edge, never once honing it on a stone.

Telling a newb this, is akin to telling a white belt to perform a Jumping Back Spin kick without ever taking the time to teach him the foundation of how that is accomplished...